We arrived in Brownsville Texas where Peggy and Mike spend the winter months. They wanted to show me some of the sights before they went East for the holidays. We went to Matamoras which is just across the border from Brownsville. We walked across the International Bridge over the Rio Grande which is surprisingly small as rivers go. Arriving in Mexico, Mike noticed that the Mexican police were on high alert with automatic rifles slung around their necks and many of them at the border crossing. We took a bus into town (apparently local businesses run these busses to bring you to their establishments). We had the driver drop us near the Presidential Square. We walked into the square and took some pics of the bandstand and the old church. The church especially intrigued me. It was basically plain adobe type walls inside and out but decorated all over with terracotta (I think that’s the term). It is clay pottery type stuff affixed to the wall, adhered to it, not part of the wall. Beautiful, unique, impressive. (see pics) The altar was a little overdone for my taste but seemed right somehow. Anyway I liked this old cathedral. The band stand was unbelievable. It was entirely covered in mosaic tiles with what seemed a Persian motif, the base, the ceiling and even the finials on the roof! Another unique structure. Opposite the church, on the other side of the square, was the mayoral building which I didn’t photograph but it had a sign saying Presidential something or other. Thus the name of the square.
We walked to another square a few blocks away which was no where near as impressive but I found that church very interesting. Simple, white, plain but soaring like Gothic cathedrals do. I hope the pic gives some of that feeling. The inside was just exactly like the outside with no interruption of the soaring shape of the nave shown on the outside. I know this is weird but I thought immediately of Danish modern??? Anyway, we encountered an army patrol in humvee type vehicles with a large mounted gun in each. Peggy and Mike had never seen such displays of force but we never learned what was up.
We had an excellent Mexican lunch before returning to Brownsville. I tasted plain tequila and a Marguerita . Nothing to write home about! I’ll stick to whisky!
A friend of Mike’s took us to Boca Chica (about 20 miles from Brownsville), a beautiful coastal area on the Gulf of Mexico. We drove in a four wheel drive along the beach about 10 miles. The southern end of this area is the mouth of the Rio Grande. Wow, it’s even smaller here than at Matamoras! See pics. The amazing thing was there were no more than 3 or 4 cabins along this entire stretch of coast. In fact, from the coast inland about 15 miles there is nothing. The land is flat with some scrub bushes but obviously subject to flooding. Right near the coast there are dunes but just a single row of them paralleling the coast. We stopped at an historical marker which explained that an army encampment had been made at that spot about 8 miles from the coast during the Mexican war (1846). That spot was the first dry, raised land encountered by the army which had landed at the Rio Grande and marched inland looking for a place to camp. This raised area was a few miles long and less than half a mile wide. Interesting topography. Anyway, back to the coast. At the Northern end of the beach is the entrance to Brownsville harbor which is a dredged channel protected by a most impressive stone jetty made of red granite boulders cemented together to form a seawall. On the other side of this narrow entrance is South Padre Island which is as developed as the Boca Chica beach is not. Skyscraper hotels and condos line the Gulf shore and multi-million dollar mansions line the bay shore. We took a trip there and walked the beach which is always fun in the sun! I just had to get my feet wet in the western Gulf of Mexico!
I abruptly decided to end my dream trip in Brownsville. I cannot thank Peggy and Mike enough for their hospitality!! They put up with me through it all, took me to places they had already seen, took me to places they never wanted to see, and through it all were unfailingly gracious. They will never be able to understand the depth of my gratitude. I left Texas December 10th and am returning to New England for the holidays, then to my daughter’s in NC, then Florida somewhere???
Hope you all have enjoyed this blog.
Sunday, December 9, 2007
Friday, November 30, 2007
San Antonio
Do you know more about the Alamo than I did ?? My guide on the San Antonio city tour seemed to think visitors uniformly thought certain things were facts because they had the John Wayne image in mind. Unfortunately, I think he was right as far as my mind went. This city is on the edge of the Hill Country of Texas. There is no desert here!! My image had the Alamo in the desert. The Alamo was founded as a mission church not a fort. Hmm. Not in my image. The Alamo is located in the center of the current city and in the center of a 100 year old town at the time of the famous battle. Hmm. Not in my image. You see, I had a lot to learn about San Antonio!
I took a full day tour of the city to see things Peggy and Mike had already seen. Saw the historic cathedral of San Francisco (St Francis) where the ashes of the heroes of the Alamo are buried. Beautiful church but ornate. I noticed that the icons in the apses off the main altar fit my idea of Mexican looking. Mary with a brown complexion, for instance. Perhaps closer to reality than our lily white images but a surprise for me. Anyway, a cathedral.
Then a visit to the famous Riverwalk. We took a boat ride along the two and a half mile section of the river which is like a series of canals. I thought it would have been totally appropriate if the boats had been gondolas from Venice. It was beautiful gliding along the river with a guide telling us of the wonderful restaurants along the sides. Sidewalk dining seems to be a must in season. We are returning to the Riverwalk tomorrow night to see the Christmas lights. Should be beautiful. We watched the parade of barges which followed the lighting ceremony the other night on TV. I was surprised to learn the river results from the overflow of an aquifer just a few miles north of the city. Flooding is a threat here so they have solved the problem by a series of watergates which prevent too much water from getting into then downtown area. They seem to block it and push it away from the city. The gates reminded me of overhead garage doors set in archways. They have also paved the riverbed and close sections each year to clean out the mud and debris. A fully tamed Nature! But beautiful to see.
My visit to the Alamo was very different than anticipated. It was Friday after Thanksgiving and the crowds were all around. I had to wait in line to enter the “Shrine” and never got away from the crowds there. However, it is a mission church on the same design as any other I’ve seen. It is run by the Daughters of the
Republic of Texas. Somehow, they have elevated this to shrine status and got the city and state to back them up. Never approved of the DAR or of this. By law, no building can be built here in such a way that the SHADOW of the building can touch the Shrine! Oh well, certainly more important than health care for children!!
Visited two of the five missions originally established in this town. San Jose mission is the largest and most historic of all those I have visited. The friars converted a number of local Indian tribes to Christianity. They employed them to build the missions. In this case, the Apaches began to attach the local Indians so the mission built a large enclosed area like a fort and let the Indians live inside this stone walled stockade. I took some pics of the Indian rooms along the wall, outdoor ovens and of the church. Most interesting.
I then visited Concepcion mission which was smaller and had not stockade. In both cases, the nave of the mission church was narrow and long with a choir loft reached by an outside staircase. Just like those in California I visited. These are older than CA but same design. These were built of stone, probably limestone, and mortared together. Walls were as thick as the adobe walls further West. The ceilings were made the same was with small branches laid over timbers and mud thatched.
Other than the unseasonable cold which we have experienced here, I enjoyed this visit. Temps:
Wed 90
Thursday 55
Friday 50s
Sat 40s
Sun 40s
Mon and Tuesday 60s predicted!!
I took a full day tour of the city to see things Peggy and Mike had already seen. Saw the historic cathedral of San Francisco (St Francis) where the ashes of the heroes of the Alamo are buried. Beautiful church but ornate. I noticed that the icons in the apses off the main altar fit my idea of Mexican looking. Mary with a brown complexion, for instance. Perhaps closer to reality than our lily white images but a surprise for me. Anyway, a cathedral.
Then a visit to the famous Riverwalk. We took a boat ride along the two and a half mile section of the river which is like a series of canals. I thought it would have been totally appropriate if the boats had been gondolas from Venice. It was beautiful gliding along the river with a guide telling us of the wonderful restaurants along the sides. Sidewalk dining seems to be a must in season. We are returning to the Riverwalk tomorrow night to see the Christmas lights. Should be beautiful. We watched the parade of barges which followed the lighting ceremony the other night on TV. I was surprised to learn the river results from the overflow of an aquifer just a few miles north of the city. Flooding is a threat here so they have solved the problem by a series of watergates which prevent too much water from getting into then downtown area. They seem to block it and push it away from the city. The gates reminded me of overhead garage doors set in archways. They have also paved the riverbed and close sections each year to clean out the mud and debris. A fully tamed Nature! But beautiful to see.
My visit to the Alamo was very different than anticipated. It was Friday after Thanksgiving and the crowds were all around. I had to wait in line to enter the “Shrine” and never got away from the crowds there. However, it is a mission church on the same design as any other I’ve seen. It is run by the Daughters of the
Republic of Texas. Somehow, they have elevated this to shrine status and got the city and state to back them up. Never approved of the DAR or of this. By law, no building can be built here in such a way that the SHADOW of the building can touch the Shrine! Oh well, certainly more important than health care for children!!
Visited two of the five missions originally established in this town. San Jose mission is the largest and most historic of all those I have visited. The friars converted a number of local Indian tribes to Christianity. They employed them to build the missions. In this case, the Apaches began to attach the local Indians so the mission built a large enclosed area like a fort and let the Indians live inside this stone walled stockade. I took some pics of the Indian rooms along the wall, outdoor ovens and of the church. Most interesting.
I then visited Concepcion mission which was smaller and had not stockade. In both cases, the nave of the mission church was narrow and long with a choir loft reached by an outside staircase. Just like those in California I visited. These are older than CA but same design. These were built of stone, probably limestone, and mortared together. Walls were as thick as the adobe walls further West. The ceilings were made the same was with small branches laid over timbers and mud thatched.
Other than the unseasonable cold which we have experienced here, I enjoyed this visit. Temps:
Wed 90
Thursday 55
Friday 50s
Sat 40s
Sun 40s
Mon and Tuesday 60s predicted!!
Sedona
I took a few days vacation and went to Sedona AZ. I had heard so much about it that I was very interested in seeing it. I arrived on route 179, coming around a corner to see the first beautiful cliff of red sandstone right in front of me. A bit further and I saw a pinker red cliff. These were the first pics I took. I drove into Sedona’s main street and saw the sign for Tourist info. Stopped and got shanghaied into one of those Time Share Pressure Sales promotions. They very cleverly have their hook shop in the same parking lot as the regular info center. You start out asking for maps and end up with all this free stuff if you will listen to a presentation. You know what I mean. Well, the tightwad in me raised its ugly head and I went for the presentation. I earned all the free stuff, believe me!!
Anyway, the main thing I earned was a combo tour with Pink Jeeps. A $115 value for $15. As my son pointed out, when was the last time I earned $50 an hour??? The tour was great off-roading fun. We went thru the part of the Coconino National Forest called Broken Arrow because that is where the movie of that name with Jeff Chandler as Cochise (I think) was made. Anyway, rode the jeep up and down rocks I would be afraid to walk on! Very beautiful views. The guide kept talking about the manzanita bushes which are dying because of the severe drought. These bushes have mahogany collored stems which show through the greenery like beautiful sculptures. Loved it. Then we went to the rim of the valley along Oak Creek Canyon. Breathtaking. We went up to 7000 feet from a base of 4000. Learned that the valley walls are basically sandstone and limestone but on the very top of all this is basalt from volcano activity. The hardest rock on the top means that the sandstone erodes first under the basalt and huge boulders of basalt break off and come rolling down into the valley. I took some pics of basalt boulders in Oak Creek.
I visited the airport twice for sunset pics. Mostly I liked the way the dimming light cast beautiful shadows on the cliffs. But the sunset wasn’t too shabby. The view from there is over the whole town so you realize what a small town it really is.
I climbed up through Oak Creek Canyon first in the dark so didn’t really realize what it was like until the next day when I came down thru it. Tried to get a pic of the switchback road that drops over 2000 feet in seconds! Loved that canyon and took some pics at the Slide Rock state park. At that point the canyon widens a little and the park enables you to walk along the streambed where the rushing water in some seasons still is carving the rocks. Channels have been scooped out by the water and people are allowed to sit down and slide along the rock channels being propelled by the water. This section ends in a deeper pool so seems safe enough but 50 degree water did not invite me. (Temps in Sedona average 50’s this month but it was well in the 70’s each day I was there). It was beautiful just to walk along the rock ledges in the streambed.
When I left Sedona, I traveled further on 89A toward Prescott AZ. I had stopped at Montezuma’s Castle on the way to Sedona and now I stopped at Tuzigoot (TWO-zee-goot). Both of these ruins are believed to have belonged to the Sinagua (seen-AH-wah) people. The name is Spanish meaning Without Water. Those at Montezuma’s Castle built homes under cliff overhangs high above the Verde Valley floor (similar to Mesa Verde). There is some evidence that they practiced irrigation which was similar to that of native civilizations in Mexico. The people at Tuzigoot practiced dry land farming and lived in pueblos on a high hill in the Verde Valley. These pueblos were made of two parallel walls of sandstone and limestone with fill in between the walls. A mud-like mortar was used to hold the stones. Interesting to me.
Tuzigoot is located near the town of Cottonwood. Aptly named as the cottonwood trees are turning golden in this season and you can see the route of the river since they are the only trees in the area. I enjoyed Cottonwood for another reason. I was stopped by a parade as I was looking for Tuzigoot. Suddenly, coming to an intersection, a cop stepped out and stopped all traffic. Then there appeared out of nowhere, Santa riding in the high back seat of a tri-motorcycle. He was followed by about 300 motorcycles in parade! Harley Davidson is really doing things up well!
Two things keep recurring as I tour the Southwest. Of course, I’m always in the desert and I’m always aware of the dry washes which drain the land after drenching rains. Here in Texas, I’ve discovered they are called draws. Now that fits better with the cowboy image of Texas. I always remember Westerns with cowboys driving the cattle out of draws. Don’t you?
Anyway, the main thing I earned was a combo tour with Pink Jeeps. A $115 value for $15. As my son pointed out, when was the last time I earned $50 an hour??? The tour was great off-roading fun. We went thru the part of the Coconino National Forest called Broken Arrow because that is where the movie of that name with Jeff Chandler as Cochise (I think) was made. Anyway, rode the jeep up and down rocks I would be afraid to walk on! Very beautiful views. The guide kept talking about the manzanita bushes which are dying because of the severe drought. These bushes have mahogany collored stems which show through the greenery like beautiful sculptures. Loved it. Then we went to the rim of the valley along Oak Creek Canyon. Breathtaking. We went up to 7000 feet from a base of 4000. Learned that the valley walls are basically sandstone and limestone but on the very top of all this is basalt from volcano activity. The hardest rock on the top means that the sandstone erodes first under the basalt and huge boulders of basalt break off and come rolling down into the valley. I took some pics of basalt boulders in Oak Creek.
I visited the airport twice for sunset pics. Mostly I liked the way the dimming light cast beautiful shadows on the cliffs. But the sunset wasn’t too shabby. The view from there is over the whole town so you realize what a small town it really is.
I climbed up through Oak Creek Canyon first in the dark so didn’t really realize what it was like until the next day when I came down thru it. Tried to get a pic of the switchback road that drops over 2000 feet in seconds! Loved that canyon and took some pics at the Slide Rock state park. At that point the canyon widens a little and the park enables you to walk along the streambed where the rushing water in some seasons still is carving the rocks. Channels have been scooped out by the water and people are allowed to sit down and slide along the rock channels being propelled by the water. This section ends in a deeper pool so seems safe enough but 50 degree water did not invite me. (Temps in Sedona average 50’s this month but it was well in the 70’s each day I was there). It was beautiful just to walk along the rock ledges in the streambed.
When I left Sedona, I traveled further on 89A toward Prescott AZ. I had stopped at Montezuma’s Castle on the way to Sedona and now I stopped at Tuzigoot (TWO-zee-goot). Both of these ruins are believed to have belonged to the Sinagua (seen-AH-wah) people. The name is Spanish meaning Without Water. Those at Montezuma’s Castle built homes under cliff overhangs high above the Verde Valley floor (similar to Mesa Verde). There is some evidence that they practiced irrigation which was similar to that of native civilizations in Mexico. The people at Tuzigoot practiced dry land farming and lived in pueblos on a high hill in the Verde Valley. These pueblos were made of two parallel walls of sandstone and limestone with fill in between the walls. A mud-like mortar was used to hold the stones. Interesting to me.
Tuzigoot is located near the town of Cottonwood. Aptly named as the cottonwood trees are turning golden in this season and you can see the route of the river since they are the only trees in the area. I enjoyed Cottonwood for another reason. I was stopped by a parade as I was looking for Tuzigoot. Suddenly, coming to an intersection, a cop stepped out and stopped all traffic. Then there appeared out of nowhere, Santa riding in the high back seat of a tri-motorcycle. He was followed by about 300 motorcycles in parade! Harley Davidson is really doing things up well!
Two things keep recurring as I tour the Southwest. Of course, I’m always in the desert and I’m always aware of the dry washes which drain the land after drenching rains. Here in Texas, I’ve discovered they are called draws. Now that fits better with the cowboy image of Texas. I always remember Westerns with cowboys driving the cattle out of draws. Don’t you?
Thursday, November 15, 2007
Valley of the Sun
This was posted out of order. It should have been posted about 11/15/07.
We went to Phoenix today and climbed (drove) up South Mountain City Park. It is reputed to be the largest city park in the nation. It is located right on the edge of Phoenix and we climbed rapidly up about 2000 feet on a beautiful road. The overlooks were stupendous! We were above the landing and takeoff paths for the busy, busy airport. I think they were using parallel runways because there was a landing and a takeoff about every 30 seconds. Beautiful to watch from above!
You could see the whole Valley of the Sun laid out before you. (If you have the ability to get your hands on a copy of the out of print book called The Weans , even try to borrow one, it would tell you what I am thinking as I write “Valley of the Sun”.) One of the lookout buildings had a wonderful sundial like brass plate with labels and directions to various cities and points of interest. I can tell you there is no dividing line between Phoenix and its surrounding cities. One blends right into another. The only clear demarcations were the desert landscapes and the imported trees landscapes.
We then drove to Scottsdale and toured on the free city trolley. Wow! Now I know how the other half lives. Pricey and then pricier!! No trailer parks or RV parks in that city!! Lots of art galleries but these were the real thing. Not tourist traps. One gallery was advertising that it had Andy Wyeths for sale!! Anyway, all parking in Scottsdale is free – no meters and even parking garages are free. The mall stores were like Nieman Marcus etc!
It was very nice but still desert with an average of 100 days in triple digits!!
This whole area is known as the Sonora Desert. It extends from Northern Mexico into Arizona. We drove to the Desert Museum and to the Saguaro (sah-WAH-row) National Park in Tucson. On the way we saw a large group of airliners parked in a field. It turns out this is called the Pinal (this county) Air Park. Apparently a place to drop off excess or not currently used airliners. Every color of the rainbow was represented but all seemed to be of the same make or model, the ones with the high dorsal fin tail.
Anyway, the Desert Museum. If you ever get to Tucson, you MUST go here. It is unlike any museum I’ve ever been to. A couple of buildings but basically a huge Southwestern garden. Native plants, bushes and cacti!! Now for a little flora lesson ( you’ve had the geology lessons right along). Cacti were always just THEM. A group of undifferentiated stuff but now…
First, everyone knows Kristi’s favorite, the saguaro but do you know the rest?? We saw spiny ocotillo which looks dead but as soon as it gets some rain, will burst into little green leaves which it drops as soon as it gets dry again so it usually looks like dead spines. Peggy liked the fluffy Teddy Bear Cholla (Choya) which you would never want to hug! I liked the Buckhorn Cholla which reminded me of stiffly braided rope. Similar to it is the Chain Rope Cholla which is like braided cable. We can identify Organ Pipe and Senita which is like organ pipe but is six sided rather than round. I almost left out the Chain Fruit Cholla (also called Hanging Fruit Cholla) which is like the Teddy Bear, fluffy, but has fruit hanging from under its top. Now be sure to look at the pics and see what they each look like.
In addition to cacti, the museum had loots of bushes. The palo verde is seen thoughout the desert. It has green bark so the entire bush is green. The turpentine bush is also prevalent. It has white or yellow fluffy flowers on the top. The tree or bush with fern-like leaves and thorns is acacia of one variety or another. The jojoba (hohoba) is used in shampoo. Last but not least is the creosote bush which gives off a pungent odor when wet. People say this is the smell of rain in the desert!!
Then we visited the National park and enjoyed the views of thousands of saguaros marching up and down the hills. No two are alike but the “normal” is not the two armed picture seen everywhere. Normal is multiple arms pointing in multiple directions! Loved it.
Today Mike and Peggy took me to a surprise! We went out to Florence AZ (30 miles) to see a Greek Orthodox Monastery which was founded 11 years ago. Wow!! I’ve never seen anything like it. There is a main church building (see pics) and about 5 other chapels so far. Three or four guest buildings, a dining hall and a building for the 45 brothers. You have to report to the bookshop on the way in where a strict dress code is explained. We were inappropriately dressed so… They provided long pants and shirts with long sleeves for Mike and I and a long skirt, long sleeved blouse and a kerchief for Peg. We got a guided tour of the main church and a self guided tour of the rest. It is a marvel to see the beautiful gardens surrounding every building and walkway. Fountains everywhere. An interesting marriage of Spanish Southwestern architecture with traditional Greek. Beautiful, beautiful everywhere you looked.
We were driving East on I-8 in AZ when suddenly I noticed cars coming toward us on a road to our right!! It seems that at one point to put the road through some mountains, I-8 split and Westbound crosses over Eastbound and continues up the mountains on the right of the Eastbound. Wild feeling!!
We went to Phoenix today and climbed (drove) up South Mountain City Park. It is reputed to be the largest city park in the nation. It is located right on the edge of Phoenix and we climbed rapidly up about 2000 feet on a beautiful road. The overlooks were stupendous! We were above the landing and takeoff paths for the busy, busy airport. I think they were using parallel runways because there was a landing and a takeoff about every 30 seconds. Beautiful to watch from above!
You could see the whole Valley of the Sun laid out before you. (If you have the ability to get your hands on a copy of the out of print book called The Weans , even try to borrow one, it would tell you what I am thinking as I write “Valley of the Sun”.) One of the lookout buildings had a wonderful sundial like brass plate with labels and directions to various cities and points of interest. I can tell you there is no dividing line between Phoenix and its surrounding cities. One blends right into another. The only clear demarcations were the desert landscapes and the imported trees landscapes.
We then drove to Scottsdale and toured on the free city trolley. Wow! Now I know how the other half lives. Pricey and then pricier!! No trailer parks or RV parks in that city!! Lots of art galleries but these were the real thing. Not tourist traps. One gallery was advertising that it had Andy Wyeths for sale!! Anyway, all parking in Scottsdale is free – no meters and even parking garages are free. The mall stores were like Nieman Marcus etc!
It was very nice but still desert with an average of 100 days in triple digits!!
This whole area is known as the Sonora Desert. It extends from Northern Mexico into Arizona. We drove to the Desert Museum and to the Saguaro (sah-WAH-row) National Park in Tucson. On the way we saw a large group of airliners parked in a field. It turns out this is called the Pinal (this county) Air Park. Apparently a place to drop off excess or not currently used airliners. Every color of the rainbow was represented but all seemed to be of the same make or model, the ones with the high dorsal fin tail.
Anyway, the Desert Museum. If you ever get to Tucson, you MUST go here. It is unlike any museum I’ve ever been to. A couple of buildings but basically a huge Southwestern garden. Native plants, bushes and cacti!! Now for a little flora lesson ( you’ve had the geology lessons right along). Cacti were always just THEM. A group of undifferentiated stuff but now…
First, everyone knows Kristi’s favorite, the saguaro but do you know the rest?? We saw spiny ocotillo which looks dead but as soon as it gets some rain, will burst into little green leaves which it drops as soon as it gets dry again so it usually looks like dead spines. Peggy liked the fluffy Teddy Bear Cholla (Choya) which you would never want to hug! I liked the Buckhorn Cholla which reminded me of stiffly braided rope. Similar to it is the Chain Rope Cholla which is like braided cable. We can identify Organ Pipe and Senita which is like organ pipe but is six sided rather than round. I almost left out the Chain Fruit Cholla (also called Hanging Fruit Cholla) which is like the Teddy Bear, fluffy, but has fruit hanging from under its top. Now be sure to look at the pics and see what they each look like.
In addition to cacti, the museum had loots of bushes. The palo verde is seen thoughout the desert. It has green bark so the entire bush is green. The turpentine bush is also prevalent. It has white or yellow fluffy flowers on the top. The tree or bush with fern-like leaves and thorns is acacia of one variety or another. The jojoba (hohoba) is used in shampoo. Last but not least is the creosote bush which gives off a pungent odor when wet. People say this is the smell of rain in the desert!!
Then we visited the National park and enjoyed the views of thousands of saguaros marching up and down the hills. No two are alike but the “normal” is not the two armed picture seen everywhere. Normal is multiple arms pointing in multiple directions! Loved it.
Today Mike and Peggy took me to a surprise! We went out to Florence AZ (30 miles) to see a Greek Orthodox Monastery which was founded 11 years ago. Wow!! I’ve never seen anything like it. There is a main church building (see pics) and about 5 other chapels so far. Three or four guest buildings, a dining hall and a building for the 45 brothers. You have to report to the bookshop on the way in where a strict dress code is explained. We were inappropriately dressed so… They provided long pants and shirts with long sleeves for Mike and I and a long skirt, long sleeved blouse and a kerchief for Peg. We got a guided tour of the main church and a self guided tour of the rest. It is a marvel to see the beautiful gardens surrounding every building and walkway. Fountains everywhere. An interesting marriage of Spanish Southwestern architecture with traditional Greek. Beautiful, beautiful everywhere you looked.
We were driving East on I-8 in AZ when suddenly I noticed cars coming toward us on a road to our right!! It seems that at one point to put the road through some mountains, I-8 split and Westbound crosses over Eastbound and continues up the mountains on the right of the Eastbound. Wild feeling!!
Monday, November 12, 2007
Casa Grande
We moved from Yuma today about 180 miles East to Casa Grande. This town was named for the ruins found about 20 miles North of here. When the Spanish arrived in 1600, they found a ruin of a village centered around a huge house (Casa Grande). the building was at least 3 stories tall with rooms of unknown use. Over the centuries, the building has deteriorated but you can still tell it was huge for the era when it was built.
Archaeologists have worked the site for most of the 20th century and have pieced together that a civilization known as Hohokam. They settled this area around 300 AD and built the Big House around 1100. They seemed to have knowledge like the Mexican civilizations: irrigation canals, large building engineering, and calendar knowledge with view ports in the Big House for sun solstice and moon events. They ma be related to the Pueblos. Anyway, they built the Casa Grande from Caliche (KA Lee Che) which is calcium carbonate and is found as hard pan here in the Sonora desert. They in effect made concrete and poured the mixture into 2 foot sections right on the walls they were building. They did not use blocks or bricks as is done with adobe. I was amazed to see their efforts. I had never heard of them.
Archaeologists have worked the site for most of the 20th century and have pieced together that a civilization known as Hohokam. They settled this area around 300 AD and built the Big House around 1100. They seemed to have knowledge like the Mexican civilizations: irrigation canals, large building engineering, and calendar knowledge with view ports in the Big House for sun solstice and moon events. They ma be related to the Pueblos. Anyway, they built the Casa Grande from Caliche (KA Lee Che) which is calcium carbonate and is found as hard pan here in the Sonora desert. They in effect made concrete and poured the mixture into 2 foot sections right on the walls they were building. They did not use blocks or bricks as is done with adobe. I was amazed to see their efforts. I had never heard of them.
Sunday, November 11, 2007
Yuma Crossing/Landing
From the time I arrived in Yuma, I have been hearing about Yuma Landing and Yuma Crossing. The phrases seemed to be interchangeable. Then one evening, Peggy and Mike and some friends took me to Yuma Landing. It is a restaurant. It is built on the site of the first airplane landing in Yuma. It was one of those early biplanes and had to be pushed up the hill so it could take a lot of using the speed of the downhill run. The restaurant is decorated with lots of photos of the era. The next day Peggy and Mike took me to Yuma Crossing. It's in the same neighborhood as the Landing.
However, those two are not related in any way. Yuma Crossing is the historic Park which has been established at this site off the Colorado River Crossing. The mighty Colorado, before it was dammed to death, was an obstacle to transportation East and West. Long before the arrival of the Spanish, the Indians had discovered this ford. The river at this point is divided into three channels flowing around two islands. The river was shallow and men could walk across from island to island. This became critical when the Army established a Fort at Yuma. Supplies could be brought up the Colorado from the Gulf of California and offloaded at Yuma. When the transcontinental railroad was built, a railroad bridge was built over the Colorado at the same site. Later, the last link in an ocean to ocean road was the highway bridge built over the Colorado right next to the railroad bridge. Thus, Yuma Crossing is really a Crossing of the Colorado at Yuma.
The other very interesting thing at that state Park is the Yuma Main Canal Inverted Siphon. Around 1905, the federal government became interested in making the desert bloom. They decided to build a dam on the Colorado called the Laguna dam. It was a good place to build the dam (and steal 90% of the Colorado water) but difficult to deliver the water to the Yuma area. The Gila River flows across Arizona and into the Colorado between the Laguna dam and Yuma. The erratic flooding of the Gila made it impossible to carry the water to Yuma. So an engineering marvel was devised. The water was sent from the dam down the California side (West side) to a point opposite the Yuma Crossing. Then site was built to carry the water and 90 feet down on the California side across under the Colorado River and back up 90 feet where it dumps into the Yuma Main Canal. So the siphon is U-shaped but goes under the river instead of over it!
They had a 1930 model AA truck (so like Vickie's) on display and in running order! And then there were the railroad trucks exactly like those used in Charlestown when I was a paperboy in the papers were delivered to the railroad station. Some of you might remember those hand trucks!
I really enjoyed this and we only left because Peggy and I were hungry. We had not planned this excursion so we didn't have my camera or the crackers so necessary for a Safari!
We leave Yuma tomorrow for points East!
However, those two are not related in any way. Yuma Crossing is the historic Park which has been established at this site off the Colorado River Crossing. The mighty Colorado, before it was dammed to death, was an obstacle to transportation East and West. Long before the arrival of the Spanish, the Indians had discovered this ford. The river at this point is divided into three channels flowing around two islands. The river was shallow and men could walk across from island to island. This became critical when the Army established a Fort at Yuma. Supplies could be brought up the Colorado from the Gulf of California and offloaded at Yuma. When the transcontinental railroad was built, a railroad bridge was built over the Colorado at the same site. Later, the last link in an ocean to ocean road was the highway bridge built over the Colorado right next to the railroad bridge. Thus, Yuma Crossing is really a Crossing of the Colorado at Yuma.
The other very interesting thing at that state Park is the Yuma Main Canal Inverted Siphon. Around 1905, the federal government became interested in making the desert bloom. They decided to build a dam on the Colorado called the Laguna dam. It was a good place to build the dam (and steal 90% of the Colorado water) but difficult to deliver the water to the Yuma area. The Gila River flows across Arizona and into the Colorado between the Laguna dam and Yuma. The erratic flooding of the Gila made it impossible to carry the water to Yuma. So an engineering marvel was devised. The water was sent from the dam down the California side (West side) to a point opposite the Yuma Crossing. Then site was built to carry the water and 90 feet down on the California side across under the Colorado River and back up 90 feet where it dumps into the Yuma Main Canal. So the siphon is U-shaped but goes under the river instead of over it!
They had a 1930 model AA truck (so like Vickie's) on display and in running order! And then there were the railroad trucks exactly like those used in Charlestown when I was a paperboy in the papers were delivered to the railroad station. Some of you might remember those hand trucks!
I really enjoyed this and we only left because Peggy and I were hungry. We had not planned this excursion so we didn't have my camera or the crackers so necessary for a Safari!
We leave Yuma tomorrow for points East!
Saturday, November 10, 2007
San Diego -- Old Town
My adventures in San Diego included eating at Mexican restaurant. Me! By myself! Those who know me know I run at the first sign of a hot spice. Imagine how brave I felt entering a Mexican restaurant and ordering a chimichanga! I loved it and the refried beans and Spanish rice.
But I really wanted to tell you about Old Town. It's a State historic Park which tries to preserve the original Spanish settlement of San Diego. The mission was moved within a couple of years of its founding to get away from the soldiers and near to where the Indians lived. I visited the mission church took a few pictures. The original priests room is preserved and I took a couple of pictures to show its simplicity. The church and its related buildings were made of adobe with walls about 4 feet thick. I've been pondering the reason for this thickness and I've decided it's because Adobe bricks are quite weak and the thickness is needed to support the roof. The choir loft is reached by an outside staircase. The nave of the Church is long and narrow. The only doors are opposite each other approximately halfway down the nave.
Old Town was very interesting. The most important building in the town was the residence
of the Commandant. It was a U-shaped building with each role opening onto a covered porch or walkway. The outside walls of a U-shaped building were continued to enclose a courtyard. in the courtyard was a southwestern part with desert plants at a couple of fruit trees. The ceilings of Rome's were wooden boards, like a floor. They were supported by thieves which were lashed together with what looked like rawhide as opposed to wooden pins that I'm familiar with. The floors were what I would call raw tile approximately 6" x 12". I was surprised at the quality of the furnishings that had to stop and realize that this was the home of a wealthy man with access to imported furniture. This hacienda sat at the head of the square to merchant buildings and government buildings surrounded the other three sides.
I was fascinated by the barn contents on display are just off the square. the barn was used as a Museum to display an interesting variety of transportation related items. For instance, there was a very crude cart, well warn, with appeals eight out of treetrunk layers so you've got the growth rates going around the wheel and wearing off the wheel. That is a large display about Concord coaches including a poster showing a shipment of a hundred or so coaches out of the city of Concord on the railroad. There was a Wells Fargo Concord coach and a lighter version of the Concord coach also made in Concord New Hampshire. I'd never seen this lighter version. Rounding a corner, I came upon a wagon with the manufacturer's name in large letters: Studebaker. Definitely the oldest one I'd ever see!
I spent the most time in the barn on the tandem wagons. I thought that tandem trailers were a modern invention and one I don't like to meet on the highway. However these freight wagons from the 1800's were on display here in Old Town. the explanation given was that 18 mule teams were used to haul freight. The driver rode the left mule nearest the wagon and steered by a rope hitched to the front left mule. This mule with a strained to turn left in response to a continuous pull on the rope and to turn right in response to a series of pulls. Multiple teams of oxen were also used to pull these tandem wagons. I decided that there had to be a reason for tandem wagons and I've decided it was because of the shortage of manpower. This way one driver could carry a double load. Whether you used oxen or mules depended on speed and feed. Mules moved at 2 and 1/2 mph. Oxen at 2 mph! Mules had to carry their food but oxen could graze. Just keep that in mind the next time you move ! Pics here.
But I really wanted to tell you about Old Town. It's a State historic Park which tries to preserve the original Spanish settlement of San Diego. The mission was moved within a couple of years of its founding to get away from the soldiers and near to where the Indians lived. I visited the mission church took a few pictures. The original priests room is preserved and I took a couple of pictures to show its simplicity. The church and its related buildings were made of adobe with walls about 4 feet thick. I've been pondering the reason for this thickness and I've decided it's because Adobe bricks are quite weak and the thickness is needed to support the roof. The choir loft is reached by an outside staircase. The nave of the Church is long and narrow. The only doors are opposite each other approximately halfway down the nave.
Old Town was very interesting. The most important building in the town was the residence
of the Commandant. It was a U-shaped building with each role opening onto a covered porch or walkway. The outside walls of a U-shaped building were continued to enclose a courtyard. in the courtyard was a southwestern part with desert plants at a couple of fruit trees. The ceilings of Rome's were wooden boards, like a floor. They were supported by thieves which were lashed together with what looked like rawhide as opposed to wooden pins that I'm familiar with. The floors were what I would call raw tile approximately 6" x 12". I was surprised at the quality of the furnishings that had to stop and realize that this was the home of a wealthy man with access to imported furniture. This hacienda sat at the head of the square to merchant buildings and government buildings surrounded the other three sides.
I was fascinated by the barn contents on display are just off the square. the barn was used as a Museum to display an interesting variety of transportation related items. For instance, there was a very crude cart, well warn, with appeals eight out of treetrunk layers so you've got the growth rates going around the wheel and wearing off the wheel. That is a large display about Concord coaches including a poster showing a shipment of a hundred or so coaches out of the city of Concord on the railroad. There was a Wells Fargo Concord coach and a lighter version of the Concord coach also made in Concord New Hampshire. I'd never seen this lighter version. Rounding a corner, I came upon a wagon with the manufacturer's name in large letters: Studebaker. Definitely the oldest one I'd ever see!
I spent the most time in the barn on the tandem wagons. I thought that tandem trailers were a modern invention and one I don't like to meet on the highway. However these freight wagons from the 1800's were on display here in Old Town. the explanation given was that 18 mule teams were used to haul freight. The driver rode the left mule nearest the wagon and steered by a rope hitched to the front left mule. This mule with a strained to turn left in response to a continuous pull on the rope and to turn right in response to a series of pulls. Multiple teams of oxen were also used to pull these tandem wagons. I decided that there had to be a reason for tandem wagons and I've decided it was because of the shortage of manpower. This way one driver could carry a double load. Whether you used oxen or mules depended on speed and feed. Mules moved at 2 and 1/2 mph. Oxen at 2 mph! Mules had to carry their food but oxen could graze. Just keep that in mind the next time you move ! Pics here.
Wednesday, November 7, 2007
San Diego -- Balboa Park
This subject is a big one since it took me two days to see everything I wanted to see. The park is unlike anything I have ever seen. It is huge, like Central Park but with canyons and ravines running through it. In the early 1900s, the city set aside this large piece of land. It was used for the Pan American exposition which celebrated the opening of the Panama Canal. Many of the buildings in the park were built at that time. They now house 13 museums. One of the activities highly recommended was a visit to the extensive Rose Garden. I crossed over the bridge to do this and was sidetracked by what I would call a Southwestern Garden. I had heard that my niece, Kristi, loved cacti and I started out taking a few pictures for her. Then I got to thinking as I walked through this garden that it probably was the unique garden. Certainly nowhere in New England would one find a cacti garden! Furthermore, I've been preaching and really feeling, and very strongly about the waste of water that I see here in the Southwest. So, a desert garden fit with my prejudices. Anyway, look at the pics!
Another little sidetrack. As I was waiting for the tour bus to take me back downtown, I came upon the longest limo I've ever seen. As I walked by it, I asked the driver if it was for the bridal party I could see having pictures taken in the amphitheater. And he said that it was for a different bridal party than the one I could see. He told me that car was 30 feet long and asked if I'd like to look in it. Look at the pics! There were at least five bridal parties having pictures taken at the same time. At least it wasn't completely like a Moon Church wedding.
At the far end of the park, a local merchant had built an Arts and Crafts style mansion which has been given to the city. I toured the mansion and tried to take pictures outside. I really only caught a door and window that I thought were worth saving. My impression of the house, beyond the fact that I would have loved to live there, was Frank Lloyd Wright! I didn't know that much of his style fit in The Arts and Crafts school of architecture. I thought he had invented his own called to Prairie Style. I have seen a number of right houses including those he called Usonian. This house, the Marston mansion, had a great deal of woodwork. In some ways it made me think about post-and beam house where the beams were covered with finished wood. Every room had wainscoting. Both the doors and windows had a lot of glass but had vertical strips of wood dividing the glass. The floors in the public spaces were oak and each room had a border of oak flooring and then the regular oak boards in the center of the frame. The nonpublic rooms were floored in hemlock. Most every room had built in cabinets with wooden doors. The furniture in the living room was Stickley. The sitting room upstairs was furnished in Wicker and we were told that the Wicker which used to make the room feel lighter. The outside of the house was brick. It really was very attractive but I like Frank Lloyd Wright buildings. He did not design this but it felt like he could have.
I went to the San Diego zoo which is also in Balboa Park. I took some pics, mostly of animals I was unfamiliar with. While on the tour bus, we went by a section of the park labeled Kopje. Each time we passed it, I asked myself what kind of animal that could be. When I left the bus back and entered that section. Dummy!! Kopje is a South African Boer word pronounced copy and means little head. It's a little pile of rocks in which animals live. In this rock pile, there were the cutest little klipspringers (cliffspringer's). They can jump from a standing start 10 feet. They use this ability to escape from predators by jumping from rock to rock. I have to admit that the zoo didn't thrill me. Okay but not unique like I expected.
Something that did really thrill me was a Japanese garden in Balboa Park. I called my daughter-in-law, Krista, to talk about the loggia. It was unique. Over a post-and beam frame, a crosshatch of bamboo pieces were lashed together. Vines had been trained to climb over the bamboo. Beautiful. Simple. Eco friendly! the rate stone in the rock garden was just as simple and beautiful. The theme throughout the garden seemed to be water running slowly through bamboo. It was a bamboo piece that dripped of water into a piece of bamboo wage Winfield tipped over and dumped out the water. Unphotographable! of their bamboo fountains dripped water into the stone pots or simply to rein in a slight stream of water continuously. Somehow not one photograph came out. But I loved every bit of it.
Another little sidetrack. As I was waiting for the tour bus to take me back downtown, I came upon the longest limo I've ever seen. As I walked by it, I asked the driver if it was for the bridal party I could see having pictures taken in the amphitheater. And he said that it was for a different bridal party than the one I could see. He told me that car was 30 feet long and asked if I'd like to look in it. Look at the pics! There were at least five bridal parties having pictures taken at the same time. At least it wasn't completely like a Moon Church wedding.
At the far end of the park, a local merchant had built an Arts and Crafts style mansion which has been given to the city. I toured the mansion and tried to take pictures outside. I really only caught a door and window that I thought were worth saving. My impression of the house, beyond the fact that I would have loved to live there, was Frank Lloyd Wright! I didn't know that much of his style fit in The Arts and Crafts school of architecture. I thought he had invented his own called to Prairie Style. I have seen a number of right houses including those he called Usonian. This house, the Marston mansion, had a great deal of woodwork. In some ways it made me think about post-and beam house where the beams were covered with finished wood. Every room had wainscoting. Both the doors and windows had a lot of glass but had vertical strips of wood dividing the glass. The floors in the public spaces were oak and each room had a border of oak flooring and then the regular oak boards in the center of the frame. The nonpublic rooms were floored in hemlock. Most every room had built in cabinets with wooden doors. The furniture in the living room was Stickley. The sitting room upstairs was furnished in Wicker and we were told that the Wicker which used to make the room feel lighter. The outside of the house was brick. It really was very attractive but I like Frank Lloyd Wright buildings. He did not design this but it felt like he could have.
I went to the San Diego zoo which is also in Balboa Park. I took some pics, mostly of animals I was unfamiliar with. While on the tour bus, we went by a section of the park labeled Kopje. Each time we passed it, I asked myself what kind of animal that could be. When I left the bus back and entered that section. Dummy!! Kopje is a South African Boer word pronounced copy and means little head. It's a little pile of rocks in which animals live. In this rock pile, there were the cutest little klipspringers (cliffspringer's). They can jump from a standing start 10 feet. They use this ability to escape from predators by jumping from rock to rock. I have to admit that the zoo didn't thrill me. Okay but not unique like I expected.
Something that did really thrill me was a Japanese garden in Balboa Park. I called my daughter-in-law, Krista, to talk about the loggia. It was unique. Over a post-and beam frame, a crosshatch of bamboo pieces were lashed together. Vines had been trained to climb over the bamboo. Beautiful. Simple. Eco friendly! the rate stone in the rock garden was just as simple and beautiful. The theme throughout the garden seemed to be water running slowly through bamboo. It was a bamboo piece that dripped of water into a piece of bamboo wage Winfield tipped over and dumped out the water. Unphotographable! of their bamboo fountains dripped water into the stone pots or simply to rein in a slight stream of water continuously. Somehow not one photograph came out. But I loved every bit of it.
Tuesday, November 6, 2007
San Diego -- Harbor
I began my visit to San Diego at the harbor. Not only is the visitors center located there, but there are so many ships along the Embarcadero that they demand attention. The largest were the cruise ships including a couple of Princess line. I cannot imagine getting on one of those with thousands of other people. I went south along the Embarcadero to see the USS Midway, an aircraft carrier now docked permanently as a Museum in San Diego. There were 60 stations where you pressed the number on the telephone like piece to listen to an explanation of what you are seeing. In addition there seemed to be hundreds of Navy veterans volunteering as docents to answer any question you could think of. They also demonstrated certain aspects of the ship and took small groups through the island (I think that's what the tower is called). In that tower, after walking at least three flights of stairs, we toured the air boss control room which looks out over the flight deck and the bridge which controls the sailing of the ship. We were a group of about 20 and packed in these places. However, it was below deck where sardine packing was normal. I cannot imagine how the enlisted men existed for months at a time in the spaces. I guess I was lucky to go in the Army!
I hadn't realized that the off-center flight deck (which was invented by the British) was just for landing and the on center deck with its catapults was for takeoffs. Our guide stressed how separating these two functions made life so much safer for the pilots. On the deck, they had examples of the various types of aircraft which had flown from the Midway during her service. I also toured the hangar deck and the huge elevator which carried the planes from the hangar deck to the flight deck and back. All in all, a most instructive and interesting afternoon. I highly recommend it. Some pics here.
Also in the harbor is the San Diego Maritime Museum. They have a variety of craft you can tour with experienced seamen to answer questions. I was particularly taken with the Star of India and the HMS Surprise. The Star of India was one of the last sailing ships built in England. She sailed around the world 22 times mostly carrying immigrants to New Zealand. I found it interesting for a number of reasons including the fact that she is an iron hulled vessel. Built just before the age of steel, her hall is entirely of iron and is a perfect copy of a wooden hull sailing ship. She has iron beams exactly where there would be wooden beams. The thickness of her siding is exactly the thickness of a wooden siding. She is technically a barque. This means that the foremast and the mainmast are really with square sails wound which run perpendicular to the keel. The mizzenmast (one nearest the rear) is rigged with sails which run parallel with the keel. (See how much you can learn from a docent). Anyway, Museum volunteers were having a dress rehearsal in preparation for sailing up and down the coast this coming weekend. The ship is crewed by all volunteers except the captain who is a professional. Crew members are required to train twice a month for a year before they are allowed to join the crew. I found the practice shifting of the sails unbelievably instructive. When I taught my eighth graders about whaling (way back when), I could've used what I learned about rigging. Finally, standing rigging (those ropes which hold up the mast) and running rigging (those ropes which move the sails) are clear in my mind.
Below decks, I found the accommodations terrible. First-class passengers were required to furnish their own cabins. These cabins were about 6' x 8' and an entire family was expected to fit in there. Their meals were taken in a large common room with the officers. I think the room would seat eight to 10 people. The captain's cabin was about the same size as the first-class cabins. In the hold, where the sleeping spaces of the rest of the immigrants. There were six bunks in each space, some of the bunks were doubles. It appeared that they lived in their bunks.
The other ship I liked was the HMS Surprise, the one used in the movie Captains and Commanders (or some such title). My son Erik has read all 22 books in which the Surprise played an important part. I think I've read most of them. Anyway, I just had to call him while I was aboard! The Surprise is technically rigged as a ship, all three masts with square sails perpendicular to the keel. She is a small fighting ship (frigate) with cannon as her armament. It takes a crew of about 30 to sail her but another 170 to fight her. She is about 135 feet long and 32 feet wide on the deck. Erik asked about the space between the top deck and the fighting deck which turned out to be approximately 5 feet. Anyway, I feel like I have seen what I only imagined as I read the books. pics here.
I hadn't realized that the off-center flight deck (which was invented by the British) was just for landing and the on center deck with its catapults was for takeoffs. Our guide stressed how separating these two functions made life so much safer for the pilots. On the deck, they had examples of the various types of aircraft which had flown from the Midway during her service. I also toured the hangar deck and the huge elevator which carried the planes from the hangar deck to the flight deck and back. All in all, a most instructive and interesting afternoon. I highly recommend it. Some pics here.
Also in the harbor is the San Diego Maritime Museum. They have a variety of craft you can tour with experienced seamen to answer questions. I was particularly taken with the Star of India and the HMS Surprise. The Star of India was one of the last sailing ships built in England. She sailed around the world 22 times mostly carrying immigrants to New Zealand. I found it interesting for a number of reasons including the fact that she is an iron hulled vessel. Built just before the age of steel, her hall is entirely of iron and is a perfect copy of a wooden hull sailing ship. She has iron beams exactly where there would be wooden beams. The thickness of her siding is exactly the thickness of a wooden siding. She is technically a barque. This means that the foremast and the mainmast are really with square sails wound which run perpendicular to the keel. The mizzenmast (one nearest the rear) is rigged with sails which run parallel with the keel. (See how much you can learn from a docent). Anyway, Museum volunteers were having a dress rehearsal in preparation for sailing up and down the coast this coming weekend. The ship is crewed by all volunteers except the captain who is a professional. Crew members are required to train twice a month for a year before they are allowed to join the crew. I found the practice shifting of the sails unbelievably instructive. When I taught my eighth graders about whaling (way back when), I could've used what I learned about rigging. Finally, standing rigging (those ropes which hold up the mast) and running rigging (those ropes which move the sails) are clear in my mind.
Below decks, I found the accommodations terrible. First-class passengers were required to furnish their own cabins. These cabins were about 6' x 8' and an entire family was expected to fit in there. Their meals were taken in a large common room with the officers. I think the room would seat eight to 10 people. The captain's cabin was about the same size as the first-class cabins. In the hold, where the sleeping spaces of the rest of the immigrants. There were six bunks in each space, some of the bunks were doubles. It appeared that they lived in their bunks.
The other ship I liked was the HMS Surprise, the one used in the movie Captains and Commanders (or some such title). My son Erik has read all 22 books in which the Surprise played an important part. I think I've read most of them. Anyway, I just had to call him while I was aboard! The Surprise is technically rigged as a ship, all three masts with square sails perpendicular to the keel. She is a small fighting ship (frigate) with cannon as her armament. It takes a crew of about 30 to sail her but another 170 to fight her. She is about 135 feet long and 32 feet wide on the deck. Erik asked about the space between the top deck and the fighting deck which turned out to be approximately 5 feet. Anyway, I feel like I have seen what I only imagined as I read the books. pics here.
Thursday, November 1, 2007
Yuma Prison/Colorado River
Peggy and Mike took me sightseeing to the Yuma Prison. They had visited it earlier and thought I would enjoy it. Were they ever right.
The prison was built when Arizona was a territory, before it became a state. The prisoners mined the granite on the hill and built their own prison. Granite mining remained a primary occupation for the prisoners throughout the life of the prison. The pictures of the Dark Cell I think are unique. Prisoners hollowed out three cells from the living rock with only a small air hole to admit light. These were used as punishment cells! I was uncomfortable being in one with the door open and the sun streaming in!! The first picture is of what the prison looked like in its heyday. Note the wide Colorado River flowing along at the base of the hill then look at the same river today. It has shrunk to a minuscule flow. Most of the materials to build the prison (except for the granite) were brought here on the Colorado River which was navigable from the Gulf of California (by Baja California). Today the stream is small enough to wade, I think. A little research reveals that the federal government built the Imperial Diversion Dam upstream of Yuma and diverts 90% of the Colorado's water to irrigation and city water systems. Mexico gets what is left. So much for downstream water rights.
We have explored the area from here to the Mexican border and I find my old US history coming to life. Remember the Gadsden purchase?? It was a strip of land purchased from Mexico so a trans-continental railroad could be built. If you look at a map, the part of Arizona which extends further south than California is that purchase. We drove into it the other day and drove through the town of Gadsden. We also crossed the Gila River which is ringing memory bells but I can't place it yet. Anyway, living in my history book!
Off to San Diego tomorrow. I'll let you know what I find but don't expect expert pictures as my photographer is not coming along!
The prison was built when Arizona was a territory, before it became a state. The prisoners mined the granite on the hill and built their own prison. Granite mining remained a primary occupation for the prisoners throughout the life of the prison. The pictures of the Dark Cell I think are unique. Prisoners hollowed out three cells from the living rock with only a small air hole to admit light. These were used as punishment cells! I was uncomfortable being in one with the door open and the sun streaming in!! The first picture is of what the prison looked like in its heyday. Note the wide Colorado River flowing along at the base of the hill then look at the same river today. It has shrunk to a minuscule flow. Most of the materials to build the prison (except for the granite) were brought here on the Colorado River which was navigable from the Gulf of California (by Baja California). Today the stream is small enough to wade, I think. A little research reveals that the federal government built the Imperial Diversion Dam upstream of Yuma and diverts 90% of the Colorado's water to irrigation and city water systems. Mexico gets what is left. So much for downstream water rights.
We have explored the area from here to the Mexican border and I find my old US history coming to life. Remember the Gadsden purchase?? It was a strip of land purchased from Mexico so a trans-continental railroad could be built. If you look at a map, the part of Arizona which extends further south than California is that purchase. We drove into it the other day and drove through the town of Gadsden. We also crossed the Gila River which is ringing memory bells but I can't place it yet. Anyway, living in my history book!
Off to San Diego tomorrow. I'll let you know what I find but don't expect expert pictures as my photographer is not coming along!
Thursday, October 25, 2007
Yuma Arizona
Thanks to my daughter Melissa, I know now that those strange mountains in Southern California are called the Laguna Mountains. They are located between San Diego and the desert, straddling Interstate 8. The mountains are composed of gneiss and schist. They started as sandstone and mudstone, metamorphosed into granitic schist and quartzite. At some time in the distant past, they were turned vertical (tilted) by rising magma and metamorphosed. What you see today is the result of those processes and severe erosion.
Some highlights of our stay in Yuma follow. Peggy and Mike went to a buffet last year and so wanted to take me as soon as we got here. There is Indian Reservation just across the border in California where there is the usual gambling complex. On Friday nights, they offer the best seafood buffet I’ve ever seen. I wasn’t the slightest bit interested in the one armed bandits (they still have some manual one armed bandits in this casino!) But the food! The Food! I ate Alaskan King crab. They were the largest, thickest crab legs I’d ever seen. The shells broke easily exposing beautiful crabmeat which came out whole. Peggy decided that on our next trip, she’s eating crab too. Of course, other tidbits included seafood au gratin, steamers, shrimp in a variety of dishes, and several kinds of fish. Oh, also a dessert table including half a dozen sugar-free desserts. We are going back!
Mike Peggy took me Algodones Mexico. By car it’s about 10 miles. 5 miles back into California and 5 miles south. Incidentally, the border between this part of Arizona and California is what’s left of the Colorado River. Remember, that’s the mighty river that carved the Grand Canyon but now is tapped by the city of Los Angeles and much of its water is siphoned off. Others grab their share and a small stream enters Mexico. The landscape between here and Algodones is essentially desert, even a little bit that’s irrigated on both sides of the state border is really desert.
We parked the car at the border (the same Indians who run a casino offer parking at five dollars a day on the US side of the border. We walked across into Mexico with no questions asked. Two steps of the border and you’re in a border town which seems to exist to capture American dollars. Peggy and Mike wanted to have their teeth cleaned and I wanted to check out new lenses for my scratched glasses. There have got to be 25 to 50 dentists offices, a similar number of eyeglass outlets, again of drugstores, not to mention the plastic surgeons. The sidewalks outside all the shops and stores have street vendors. You walk down the sidewalk with articles for sale on your left, overhead, and on the right. The nice thing about it is this provides shady sidewalks in the hot sun. Every vendor tries to stop you. Every price is set for haggling, at least on the sidewalks. I have been offered so much Viagra that I’m a danger! Some of the vendors include those children who offer to shine your shoes (I was wearing sneakers). We watched for young men painting the most unbelievable pictures with spray cans of paint. There were lanterns whose glass chimney’s had been painted with Southwest scenes. There were frame-able pictures, saws, and other decorated items. I watched them work for quite a while. They were fast, accurate, skillful and entertaining. They mixed colors on torn pieces of newspaper. They used scrunched up plastic shopping bags to apply this paint onto their spray painted surface. They used the edge of a piece of cardboard (like a cereal box) to make lines which turned into a cactus or a bird or a coyote. I don’t think anyone can appreciate the artistry unless they had seen it.
We returned to Algodones twice more that week. In addition to everything above, I was amazed by the customs procedure at the border when returning. It seemed to me that those people in cars had a much longer wait and a better chance of detailed inspection. The walkers didn't spend much time with the border patrol agent. They asked what you bought in Mexico, looked at your passport, ran the number through a reader and sent you on your way. Somehow, I expected more but I was glad it moved well because it was very hot in the sun, waiting.
Somehow, that sentence about being hot in the sun made me think a little about the climate here. I have heard a million times and that "it's dry heat". I always felt, dry or not, hot is hot. Well, I guess I have to confess I was wrong. Hazy hot and humid is uncomfortable in the sun or in the shade. Here, as soon as you step out of the sun, you feel a huge difference in the heat. Since arriving in Yuma, most days have been in the low 90s in the shade. Going anywhere in the sun has been hot and uncomfortable. But I can sit in the shade beside our camper and read comfortably in this heat. I know I can't be comfortable at 93° but I am! Hard to get New England out of my brain! What I really love here is the endless sunny days with beautiful blue skies. The evenings are simply the best. About an hour after sundown, the temperature drops in to the low 80's or high 70's, the air is balmy, there are no bugs and an evening walk about 8 pm is heaven. I could begin to think about this!!
I had planned to take a little vacation from this arduous journey and visit San Diego by myself. Within a few days of making of this plan, San Diego went up in flames! Calamity Jane strikes again. With 900,000 evacuated from the city and thousands of homes burned to the ground, Melissa advised me to rethink my plans. As usual, she's right. So, our drive through San Diego County may be as close as I get to San Diego. I'll let you know. Meantime, my son Erik is planning a Mexico tour for me. Some time ago I took a course on early civilizations in Mexico and he suggested I would enjoy seeing some of those sites. I totally agree. Stay tuned.
Some highlights of our stay in Yuma follow. Peggy and Mike went to a buffet last year and so wanted to take me as soon as we got here. There is Indian Reservation just across the border in California where there is the usual gambling complex. On Friday nights, they offer the best seafood buffet I’ve ever seen. I wasn’t the slightest bit interested in the one armed bandits (they still have some manual one armed bandits in this casino!) But the food! The Food! I ate Alaskan King crab. They were the largest, thickest crab legs I’d ever seen. The shells broke easily exposing beautiful crabmeat which came out whole. Peggy decided that on our next trip, she’s eating crab too. Of course, other tidbits included seafood au gratin, steamers, shrimp in a variety of dishes, and several kinds of fish. Oh, also a dessert table including half a dozen sugar-free desserts. We are going back!
Mike Peggy took me Algodones Mexico. By car it’s about 10 miles. 5 miles back into California and 5 miles south. Incidentally, the border between this part of Arizona and California is what’s left of the Colorado River. Remember, that’s the mighty river that carved the Grand Canyon but now is tapped by the city of Los Angeles and much of its water is siphoned off. Others grab their share and a small stream enters Mexico. The landscape between here and Algodones is essentially desert, even a little bit that’s irrigated on both sides of the state border is really desert.
We parked the car at the border (the same Indians who run a casino offer parking at five dollars a day on the US side of the border. We walked across into Mexico with no questions asked. Two steps of the border and you’re in a border town which seems to exist to capture American dollars. Peggy and Mike wanted to have their teeth cleaned and I wanted to check out new lenses for my scratched glasses. There have got to be 25 to 50 dentists offices, a similar number of eyeglass outlets, again of drugstores, not to mention the plastic surgeons. The sidewalks outside all the shops and stores have street vendors. You walk down the sidewalk with articles for sale on your left, overhead, and on the right. The nice thing about it is this provides shady sidewalks in the hot sun. Every vendor tries to stop you. Every price is set for haggling, at least on the sidewalks. I have been offered so much Viagra that I’m a danger! Some of the vendors include those children who offer to shine your shoes (I was wearing sneakers). We watched for young men painting the most unbelievable pictures with spray cans of paint. There were lanterns whose glass chimney’s had been painted with Southwest scenes. There were frame-able pictures, saws, and other decorated items. I watched them work for quite a while. They were fast, accurate, skillful and entertaining. They mixed colors on torn pieces of newspaper. They used scrunched up plastic shopping bags to apply this paint onto their spray painted surface. They used the edge of a piece of cardboard (like a cereal box) to make lines which turned into a cactus or a bird or a coyote. I don’t think anyone can appreciate the artistry unless they had seen it.
We returned to Algodones twice more that week. In addition to everything above, I was amazed by the customs procedure at the border when returning. It seemed to me that those people in cars had a much longer wait and a better chance of detailed inspection. The walkers didn't spend much time with the border patrol agent. They asked what you bought in Mexico, looked at your passport, ran the number through a reader and sent you on your way. Somehow, I expected more but I was glad it moved well because it was very hot in the sun, waiting.
Somehow, that sentence about being hot in the sun made me think a little about the climate here. I have heard a million times and that "it's dry heat". I always felt, dry or not, hot is hot. Well, I guess I have to confess I was wrong. Hazy hot and humid is uncomfortable in the sun or in the shade. Here, as soon as you step out of the sun, you feel a huge difference in the heat. Since arriving in Yuma, most days have been in the low 90s in the shade. Going anywhere in the sun has been hot and uncomfortable. But I can sit in the shade beside our camper and read comfortably in this heat. I know I can't be comfortable at 93° but I am! Hard to get New England out of my brain! What I really love here is the endless sunny days with beautiful blue skies. The evenings are simply the best. About an hour after sundown, the temperature drops in to the low 80's or high 70's, the air is balmy, there are no bugs and an evening walk about 8 pm is heaven. I could begin to think about this!!
I had planned to take a little vacation from this arduous journey and visit San Diego by myself. Within a few days of making of this plan, San Diego went up in flames! Calamity Jane strikes again. With 900,000 evacuated from the city and thousands of homes burned to the ground, Melissa advised me to rethink my plans. As usual, she's right. So, our drive through San Diego County may be as close as I get to San Diego. I'll let you know. Meantime, my son Erik is planning a Mexico tour for me. Some time ago I took a course on early civilizations in Mexico and he suggested I would enjoy seeing some of those sites. I totally agree. Stay tuned.
Saturday, October 13, 2007
Southern California
We went south from Laurel Bay on US 101 and California 1. Escape is part of the trip on the coast and part inland. We chose the inland route 101 in order to go to a town called Solvang which was founded by a group of Danish settlers in 1911. The settlers have worked very hard to keep that Danish flavor of the downtown section. The buildings are primarily half timber with stucco or decorative brick work between the exposed beams. There are a lot of towers, especially clock towers. The roofs are a variety of substances in an attempt to look like thatch. There were flat tiles which had moss growing on them. There were wood shakes. But mostly, there were wooden shingles width three points instead of a squared and these were laid in such a way as to, at first glance, make you think you are seeing thatch. Many roofs had stork figures. Some roofs had crossed wooden pieces at the ridge line, again as a real thatch roof would. The most impressive part of the town was four bakeries! we went into three before being overcome by the fantastic aromas in the third one. There we bought a special dessert for our lunch.
South of Solvang, we went back to the coast. Off the coast of Santa Barbara County, we saw a bit least nine offshore oil rigs. This beautiful coastline is ever in danger of an oil slick but the people on Cape Cod are worried about unsightly windmills. I wonder if they'd give up their use of oil in order to prevent the building of the windmills.
We drove through part of Santa Barbara because the AAA book highly recommended the mission and the county courthouse. We were in the RV and traffic was horrendous. Mike took one look at Mission Road, narrow, cars parked on both sides and an impossible corner. We went on. I asked a man of the bicycle if he knew where the county courthouse was. He said the next light, on the left but no left turn allowed there. Mike drove on until we could get back to the freeway (not highway, not interstate, but freeway in California). We camped one more night on the California coast north of LA, crossed L. A. in horrendous traffic, and camped just north of San Diego. We turned east on I 8and across three sets of mountains to the desert in Southern California. These mountains were the weirdest thing I've ever seen. From a distance, they looked like some huge being had scattered boulders all over them. You could see the rock standing out from the mountain. As we got closer, you could see that some of what looked like boulders were still attached to the ledge that they were eroding from. Some of the boulders seem totally free and ready to roll down and in a moment. Further into these mountains, Peggy said they look like heaps of rock created by dump trucks. She was so right. The last of the mountains were like the first with boulders and soil. I'm searching for the name of these mountains. Incidentally, on I 8, we went from sea level to 4000 feet in the first hour! I can't find the name of the mountains that straddle I-* in Southern California. Help!
We came into the desert near town called Octillo. Shortly thereafter I asked Peggy what kind of cactus was growing there and she said octillo! It looks like an upside down octopus. Near the border, I could see the outline of major mountains to the north. At their base was a pink undulating strip. After many miles, we get close enough to see that the pink strip was really and dunes. sent in an area and a number of camping sites with campers in circles and dune buggies behind or beside each camper. These buggies were the size of small cars and I was told they fill the dunes on the weekends. on the small dirt roads running beside I 8 were border patrol cars at intervals. We were only a few miles from the Mexican border.
I've noticed in southern California and here in Arizona that there are very long bridges over dry river beds. These riverbeds are as applied as the Mississippi. It makes you realize how flat the country is and how wide the streams spread when there is water.
We're here in Yuma Arizona for a month. I'm not sure what I'll be blogging about. However, a first observation. It was about 90 the first afternoon and we went swimming. The pool was tepid. But when I got out, within it seemed like seconds, my body was frozen wherever my wet bathing suit touched. I think it has to do with the dryness of the air which immediately sucks the moisture away. Anyway, I've adopted a new tactic and change out of my wet suit before walking home! I'm sure I'll have more to say about dry heat as I go along.
South of Solvang, we went back to the coast. Off the coast of Santa Barbara County, we saw a bit least nine offshore oil rigs. This beautiful coastline is ever in danger of an oil slick but the people on Cape Cod are worried about unsightly windmills. I wonder if they'd give up their use of oil in order to prevent the building of the windmills.
We drove through part of Santa Barbara because the AAA book highly recommended the mission and the county courthouse. We were in the RV and traffic was horrendous. Mike took one look at Mission Road, narrow, cars parked on both sides and an impossible corner. We went on. I asked a man of the bicycle if he knew where the county courthouse was. He said the next light, on the left but no left turn allowed there. Mike drove on until we could get back to the freeway (not highway, not interstate, but freeway in California). We camped one more night on the California coast north of LA, crossed L. A. in horrendous traffic, and camped just north of San Diego. We turned east on I 8and across three sets of mountains to the desert in Southern California. These mountains were the weirdest thing I've ever seen. From a distance, they looked like some huge being had scattered boulders all over them. You could see the rock standing out from the mountain. As we got closer, you could see that some of what looked like boulders were still attached to the ledge that they were eroding from. Some of the boulders seem totally free and ready to roll down and in a moment. Further into these mountains, Peggy said they look like heaps of rock created by dump trucks. She was so right. The last of the mountains were like the first with boulders and soil. I'm searching for the name of these mountains. Incidentally, on I 8, we went from sea level to 4000 feet in the first hour! I can't find the name of the mountains that straddle I-* in Southern California. Help!
We came into the desert near town called Octillo. Shortly thereafter I asked Peggy what kind of cactus was growing there and she said octillo! It looks like an upside down octopus. Near the border, I could see the outline of major mountains to the north. At their base was a pink undulating strip. After many miles, we get close enough to see that the pink strip was really and dunes. sent in an area and a number of camping sites with campers in circles and dune buggies behind or beside each camper. These buggies were the size of small cars and I was told they fill the dunes on the weekends. on the small dirt roads running beside I 8 were border patrol cars at intervals. We were only a few miles from the Mexican border.
I've noticed in southern California and here in Arizona that there are very long bridges over dry river beds. These riverbeds are as applied as the Mississippi. It makes you realize how flat the country is and how wide the streams spread when there is water.
We're here in Yuma Arizona for a month. I'm not sure what I'll be blogging about. However, a first observation. It was about 90 the first afternoon and we went swimming. The pool was tepid. But when I got out, within it seemed like seconds, my body was frozen wherever my wet bathing suit touched. I think it has to do with the dryness of the air which immediately sucks the moisture away. Anyway, I've adopted a new tactic and change out of my wet suit before walking home! I'm sure I'll have more to say about dry heat as I go along.
Friday, October 5, 2007
Morro Bay
We left Madera and climbed over the mountains to the coast, Morro Bay. We went down Route 99 which runs through the center of the state and onto route 41. An interesting sign at the beginning of 41 said trucks RVs vehicles with trailers are not to use this road for the next 25 miles. We switched over to Route 46 which went through some mountains, then route 101 South to 41 and then 41 over the last of the mountains to the coast. My California map shows mountains north and south of Morro Bay but let me tell you, they're here too!
As we came into Morro Bay, we passed a large gumdrop shaped rock (mountain?). There is another just outside our campsite. The biggest one is in the Bay. I found out there are nine of these cores of old volcanoes in a line across this county. The 10th is north of Morro rock hidden under the ocean. Until 1969, Morro rock was quarried for its granite. Now there's a causeway at the north end of town where you can drive out to the rock. We walked around the rock to watch the ocean waves splashing against its base on the West side. A native told us how high the winter waves reach against the rock. Most impressive. The town is small, about 10, 000, and most of the houses are east of Route 1, climbing the hill side, each with a view of the bay.
We went north along the coast yesterday. Our goal was to see Hearst Castle at San Simeon. I really don't know what to say about that. It was too large for me to grasp. In fact, I didn't take any pictures and neither did my photographer. You couldn't use flash in any of the buildings and the outside was too large to frame. But let me tell you a little about what I saw. It seems bigger than life. And yet, this is how one man lived. He actually moved in to each of the guest houses as it was completed. He started using this compound while it was still building around him. In fact, he rebuilt the swimming pool three times while he lived there. Remember, he was very conscious of the California earthquakes, so he built all the structures using reinforced concrete. When he changed his mind, the reinforced concrete had to be removed before anything new could be built there. We went up 150 steps from the tour bus site. Incidentally, we rode the tour bus 5 miles across the Hearst Corporation ranch to get to the house. Anyway, the hundred and 50 steps were broken up into several flights of stairs, most of them curving from one landing to the next. On one of the landings was the largest pool I think I've ever seen, surrounded by classical columns and pediments. Then one flight up further to the Plaza (?) outside the front door. This was some entrance. The door was at least two stories high and wide enough for an elephant, had a fountain big enough to swim in with marble benches in a graceful curve around the outside. Probably seating for a hundred. Inside, we went through a few of the main rooms. The first was the great room used for cocktails before dinner. It was probably 25 x 50 feet and I would estimate 30 feet high. The outside walls were wainscoted in several hundred-year-old church seats. When I think of the Gothic churches of Europe or Westminster Abby that I've seen on TV, between the congregation and the high altar along the sides are stalls with high wooden backs and seats with little arms all carved out of wood. These were used as wainscoting in this room. The ceiling was one found in a Mediterranean Castle and brought over whole. It wasn't large enough for the room, so skilled craftsmen added to it in such a way that you cannot tell where the old ends of the new begins. This seemed to be his attitude toward all the antiques he bought in Europe. Use them. We went through some bedrooms in one of the guest houses. Each room was filled with antiques and each was used by whatever guest was assigned there for the weekend. He average 50 to 80 guests each weekend. The views from the terraces were fantastic. He looked out across a rolling brown hills to San Simeon Bay. All in all, I think I need to return to San Simeon. I just haven't grasped it.
We went further north along the coast and saw a couple of beaches and filled with elephant seals. These were juveniles who were there awaiting the arrival of the adults who winter here. There was a docent from the group protecting these seals. He was helpful in explaining what we were seeing. Even further north, we came to a place called Ragged Point. Peggy took some wonderful photographs. Suddenly at this point, the coast changed from beaches and some low cliffs to rugged mountain sides flush against the surf. I'm not sure that I ever saw this in real life before. I kept asking Peggy to take more photos both north and south.
Today, we went to San Luis Obispo. The mission there is still a functioning church. The walls are very thick and have signs saying not an earthquake proofed building. At one time, the church had been refurbished to look like a New England church. It has now been returned to as close to its original decoration and format as possible. The Stations of the Cross were primitive paintings as were many of the decorations which were done in very bright colors. The church itself was L-shaped and the altar was set at an angle facing neither section of the L. Outside, the church was whitewashed or the Adobe was painted white. There was a beautiful plaza in front of the church with a pergola which I photographed for my daughter-in-law.
All in all, I really enjoyed our week here in Morro Bay. I had read about the mountains along the shore in California but seeing it is much more impressive.
As we came into Morro Bay, we passed a large gumdrop shaped rock (mountain?). There is another just outside our campsite. The biggest one is in the Bay. I found out there are nine of these cores of old volcanoes in a line across this county. The 10th is north of Morro rock hidden under the ocean. Until 1969, Morro rock was quarried for its granite. Now there's a causeway at the north end of town where you can drive out to the rock. We walked around the rock to watch the ocean waves splashing against its base on the West side. A native told us how high the winter waves reach against the rock. Most impressive. The town is small, about 10, 000, and most of the houses are east of Route 1, climbing the hill side, each with a view of the bay.
We went north along the coast yesterday. Our goal was to see Hearst Castle at San Simeon. I really don't know what to say about that. It was too large for me to grasp. In fact, I didn't take any pictures and neither did my photographer. You couldn't use flash in any of the buildings and the outside was too large to frame. But let me tell you a little about what I saw. It seems bigger than life. And yet, this is how one man lived. He actually moved in to each of the guest houses as it was completed. He started using this compound while it was still building around him. In fact, he rebuilt the swimming pool three times while he lived there. Remember, he was very conscious of the California earthquakes, so he built all the structures using reinforced concrete. When he changed his mind, the reinforced concrete had to be removed before anything new could be built there. We went up 150 steps from the tour bus site. Incidentally, we rode the tour bus 5 miles across the Hearst Corporation ranch to get to the house. Anyway, the hundred and 50 steps were broken up into several flights of stairs, most of them curving from one landing to the next. On one of the landings was the largest pool I think I've ever seen, surrounded by classical columns and pediments. Then one flight up further to the Plaza (?) outside the front door. This was some entrance. The door was at least two stories high and wide enough for an elephant, had a fountain big enough to swim in with marble benches in a graceful curve around the outside. Probably seating for a hundred. Inside, we went through a few of the main rooms. The first was the great room used for cocktails before dinner. It was probably 25 x 50 feet and I would estimate 30 feet high. The outside walls were wainscoted in several hundred-year-old church seats. When I think of the Gothic churches of Europe or Westminster Abby that I've seen on TV, between the congregation and the high altar along the sides are stalls with high wooden backs and seats with little arms all carved out of wood. These were used as wainscoting in this room. The ceiling was one found in a Mediterranean Castle and brought over whole. It wasn't large enough for the room, so skilled craftsmen added to it in such a way that you cannot tell where the old ends of the new begins. This seemed to be his attitude toward all the antiques he bought in Europe. Use them. We went through some bedrooms in one of the guest houses. Each room was filled with antiques and each was used by whatever guest was assigned there for the weekend. He average 50 to 80 guests each weekend. The views from the terraces were fantastic. He looked out across a rolling brown hills to San Simeon Bay. All in all, I think I need to return to San Simeon. I just haven't grasped it.
We went further north along the coast and saw a couple of beaches and filled with elephant seals. These were juveniles who were there awaiting the arrival of the adults who winter here. There was a docent from the group protecting these seals. He was helpful in explaining what we were seeing. Even further north, we came to a place called Ragged Point. Peggy took some wonderful photographs. Suddenly at this point, the coast changed from beaches and some low cliffs to rugged mountain sides flush against the surf. I'm not sure that I ever saw this in real life before. I kept asking Peggy to take more photos both north and south.
Today, we went to San Luis Obispo. The mission there is still a functioning church. The walls are very thick and have signs saying not an earthquake proofed building. At one time, the church had been refurbished to look like a New England church. It has now been returned to as close to its original decoration and format as possible. The Stations of the Cross were primitive paintings as were many of the decorations which were done in very bright colors. The church itself was L-shaped and the altar was set at an angle facing neither section of the L. Outside, the church was whitewashed or the Adobe was painted white. There was a beautiful plaza in front of the church with a pergola which I photographed for my daughter-in-law.
All in all, I really enjoyed our week here in Morro Bay. I had read about the mountains along the shore in California but seeing it is much more impressive.
Tuesday, October 2, 2007
Yosemite
We left San Francisco this morning and traveled east toward Yosemite National Park. We used a variety of routes but mostly California 120 which starts in the middle of the Sacramento Valley and goes east across Yosemite. After leaving the cities (Oakland and Berkeley), we climbed up below sculptured hills which were dry and tan. We dipped down toward a dry brook which had green grass growing in its bed. The only green in a monochromatic world. We rode across the valley and saw a huge Holstein dairy farm. There must've been 500 heifers out in the fields. The cow barns were the largest I've ever seen and shaped just like those on the Audet farm in Vermont. Then groves and groves of almonds and walnuts, and even grapes. I saw a machine that appeared to be sweeping the ground under the trees. I later found out that to harvest these nuts, they shake the tree, use blowers to push all the fallen nuts into rows and then sweep them up. All done mechanically. As we left the Valley and started to climb some foothills and came upon the first California wind farm that we've seen. It was huge. There seemed to be two types of windmills. Those which looked like the ones in the Midwest with a single pole and large blades and the other which was supported on a three legged triangular shaped mast and had smaller blades. These had an interesting variation. It was a small rotor near the back of the head which looked very much like the rear rotor on a helicopter. Maybe has the same function which is to counter the rotational effect of the large blades. Who knows?
A little higher into the foothills we suddenly came on fields full of rocks. Like there had been an explosion and the rock from the explosion had scattered far and wide across the fields. I know that's about the opposite of what happened. These hills have eroded down to sedimentary rock which is harder than whatever was surrounding it so the rocks are showing above the dead dry grass. Some of the fields looked like headstones in a cemetery. I think the rock stands sometimes four to 6 feet high and the slabs of rock are about 6 inches thick and varying from two to 4 feet wide and stand in the fields just like in a cemetery. I think the rock is shale or slate. But the layers have been turned on their side so that instead of horizontal you are getting these vertical pieces sticking up above the surrounding ground. At one place was a long ridge of it, looking very much like a stone wall in New England.
I've decided that the one word that best describes the West is water. The lack of water creates a very dry climate where hardly anything grows. The land is brown and dry and barren. Then, the opposite extreme occurs. Too much water for the land to absorb falls on it in a short period of time and you get tremendous water erosion. The softer, weaker rock and ground is washed away leaving dramatic gullies and dry watercourses cut deep into the earth. Lastly, to make the land productive, huge amounts of irrigation have been introduced. No one knows the long-term effects of this irrigation. Are we tapping the aquifers and draining them? We do know that long-term irrigation deposits huge amounts of salts into the ground and makes it totally unproductive for long periods of time. Do we really know we're doing?
We spent a couple of days in Yosemite National Park. The Park is part of the Sierra Nevada chain which has been described to us as a 400-mile long block of uplifted granite. We went to Glacier Point which is 3100 feet above the Yosemite Valley. This valley was formed by the runoff from glacial melt. This is a totally new idea for me. I always knew that rivers cut through mountains but I never thought about those rivers being fed by melting glaciers. Glaciers also contributed to the shape of the mountains in the Sierra Nevada’s. The glaciers covered the tops of some mountains and their movement rounded the top of these mountains. Those mountains in the chain with pointed tops were above the glaciers. At present, there is a river flowing through the valley called the Merced River. Anyway, glacier point is a fantastic overlook. I’m sure I never looked straight down 3100 feet. I assure you, I held on tight! Peggy took the picture to prove I was there.
My favorite place in the park was glacier point but driving through the valley impressed me especially looking up at those rock formations I had looked across at from glacier point. Half Dome and other huge cliffs were perhaps more impressive from the bottom. Of course, El Capitan was overwhelming. There are plenty of pics of all of this. A thought occurred to me as I was looking at all that granite. When I visited the Rock of Ages quarry in Barre, Vermont, I learned that Barre is sitting on a granite dome that is some 10 by 30 miles and 10 miles deep. Imagine how much granite they could dig out of the Sierra Nevada’s.
We also visited the Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias. This grove is at the southern end of the Park, about 30 miles south of Yosemite Valley. I had seen the California coast redwoods earlier on this trip. It doesn’t seem possible, but these actually seemed bigger. They are said to be shorter, by about 30 feet, but they are clearly wider. Walking around the one called the grizzly giant made me realize just how huge they are. Of course, I had to have my picture taken inside the tunnel tree. At one point in history, there were two tunnel trees but one died due to the tunnel and this one is expected to follow.
The altitude in this area was so varied that I’m not sure I can explain it. We left the Central Valley of California and went to about 3000 feet in the RV. About 2000 of those feet were in one hill. We followed Route 120 out of the Valley and up this hill. We had planned to use Route 140 but mudslides closed the road. On 120 that hill was called New Priest Road. As we were leaving, we spotted Old Priest Road. Thank God they built the new one! Our route was longer but more gradual. The road clung to the mountain from which it was cut. The sheer drop to my right as we climbed (without guardrails, of course) scared the ___ out of me! Coming down was much easier (I was on the inside)! So, we camped at about 2800 feet, drove into the Park losing and regaining that altitude three times. The highest point we were at in the park was 6000 feet.
When we left Yosemite, we came back down to the Central Valley, called the San Joaquin Valley at about 100 feet of altitude. The valley is as flat as a pancake and you can see in every direction. The Sierra Nevada’s are all to the East of the Valley and feed three rivers into this area, the Merced, the Tuolumne, and the Chowchilla. Since about 1900, these rivers have been tapped by state organized irrigation projects to turn this dry valley into a productive paradise. The irrigation starts as cement canals leading water away from the rivers and out to a network of fields. From there, a variety of methods are used to spread the water on the fields. I saw huge dairy farms, the largest I’ve ever seen, with pole barn structures for the dairy cattle. These structures have no sides, a raised central section (I assume for ventilation) and two shed like rooves slanting down from the raised central section. The fields near the farm were corn (already cut down and I assume chopped but I saw no silos) and alfalfa, much of which had been cut and was laying in windrows. I assume it was going to be bailed, and not chopped as we would in New England. Keep in mind that all these fields, including the pasturage for the younger stock, were irrigated. I wonder how much irrigation can take place before the salts left from irrigation ruin the land.
We stayed three days here in Madera, which is just south of Stockton. Beautiful warm days and cool nights! We’re off to Moro Bay tomorrow. I will get to see the famous, or is it infamous, Hearst Castle!
A little higher into the foothills we suddenly came on fields full of rocks. Like there had been an explosion and the rock from the explosion had scattered far and wide across the fields. I know that's about the opposite of what happened. These hills have eroded down to sedimentary rock which is harder than whatever was surrounding it so the rocks are showing above the dead dry grass. Some of the fields looked like headstones in a cemetery. I think the rock stands sometimes four to 6 feet high and the slabs of rock are about 6 inches thick and varying from two to 4 feet wide and stand in the fields just like in a cemetery. I think the rock is shale or slate. But the layers have been turned on their side so that instead of horizontal you are getting these vertical pieces sticking up above the surrounding ground. At one place was a long ridge of it, looking very much like a stone wall in New England.
I've decided that the one word that best describes the West is water. The lack of water creates a very dry climate where hardly anything grows. The land is brown and dry and barren. Then, the opposite extreme occurs. Too much water for the land to absorb falls on it in a short period of time and you get tremendous water erosion. The softer, weaker rock and ground is washed away leaving dramatic gullies and dry watercourses cut deep into the earth. Lastly, to make the land productive, huge amounts of irrigation have been introduced. No one knows the long-term effects of this irrigation. Are we tapping the aquifers and draining them? We do know that long-term irrigation deposits huge amounts of salts into the ground and makes it totally unproductive for long periods of time. Do we really know we're doing?
We spent a couple of days in Yosemite National Park. The Park is part of the Sierra Nevada chain which has been described to us as a 400-mile long block of uplifted granite. We went to Glacier Point which is 3100 feet above the Yosemite Valley. This valley was formed by the runoff from glacial melt. This is a totally new idea for me. I always knew that rivers cut through mountains but I never thought about those rivers being fed by melting glaciers. Glaciers also contributed to the shape of the mountains in the Sierra Nevada’s. The glaciers covered the tops of some mountains and their movement rounded the top of these mountains. Those mountains in the chain with pointed tops were above the glaciers. At present, there is a river flowing through the valley called the Merced River. Anyway, glacier point is a fantastic overlook. I’m sure I never looked straight down 3100 feet. I assure you, I held on tight! Peggy took the picture to prove I was there.
My favorite place in the park was glacier point but driving through the valley impressed me especially looking up at those rock formations I had looked across at from glacier point. Half Dome and other huge cliffs were perhaps more impressive from the bottom. Of course, El Capitan was overwhelming. There are plenty of pics of all of this. A thought occurred to me as I was looking at all that granite. When I visited the Rock of Ages quarry in Barre, Vermont, I learned that Barre is sitting on a granite dome that is some 10 by 30 miles and 10 miles deep. Imagine how much granite they could dig out of the Sierra Nevada’s.
We also visited the Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias. This grove is at the southern end of the Park, about 30 miles south of Yosemite Valley. I had seen the California coast redwoods earlier on this trip. It doesn’t seem possible, but these actually seemed bigger. They are said to be shorter, by about 30 feet, but they are clearly wider. Walking around the one called the grizzly giant made me realize just how huge they are. Of course, I had to have my picture taken inside the tunnel tree. At one point in history, there were two tunnel trees but one died due to the tunnel and this one is expected to follow.
The altitude in this area was so varied that I’m not sure I can explain it. We left the Central Valley of California and went to about 3000 feet in the RV. About 2000 of those feet were in one hill. We followed Route 120 out of the Valley and up this hill. We had planned to use Route 140 but mudslides closed the road. On 120 that hill was called New Priest Road. As we were leaving, we spotted Old Priest Road. Thank God they built the new one! Our route was longer but more gradual. The road clung to the mountain from which it was cut. The sheer drop to my right as we climbed (without guardrails, of course) scared the ___ out of me! Coming down was much easier (I was on the inside)! So, we camped at about 2800 feet, drove into the Park losing and regaining that altitude three times. The highest point we were at in the park was 6000 feet.
When we left Yosemite, we came back down to the Central Valley, called the San Joaquin Valley at about 100 feet of altitude. The valley is as flat as a pancake and you can see in every direction. The Sierra Nevada’s are all to the East of the Valley and feed three rivers into this area, the Merced, the Tuolumne, and the Chowchilla. Since about 1900, these rivers have been tapped by state organized irrigation projects to turn this dry valley into a productive paradise. The irrigation starts as cement canals leading water away from the rivers and out to a network of fields. From there, a variety of methods are used to spread the water on the fields. I saw huge dairy farms, the largest I’ve ever seen, with pole barn structures for the dairy cattle. These structures have no sides, a raised central section (I assume for ventilation) and two shed like rooves slanting down from the raised central section. The fields near the farm were corn (already cut down and I assume chopped but I saw no silos) and alfalfa, much of which had been cut and was laying in windrows. I assume it was going to be bailed, and not chopped as we would in New England. Keep in mind that all these fields, including the pasturage for the younger stock, were irrigated. I wonder how much irrigation can take place before the salts left from irrigation ruin the land.
We stayed three days here in Madera, which is just south of Stockton. Beautiful warm days and cool nights! We’re off to Moro Bay tomorrow. I will get to see the famous, or is it infamous, Hearst Castle!
Tuesday, September 25, 2007
San Francisco II
A critic advised me that I had skipped a number of interesting things in my San Francisco last day blog. Unfortunately, she's right. I got lazy and decided not to rig up the microphone and just type a few thoughts. Now I know why I bought this dictating program. I'm too lazy to type! By the way, yesterday's blog said Marin Heights with the correct name is Marin Highlands. Also, I failed to mention that San Quentin prison is within miles of this place where we're camping. We went by at on the ferry.
So , about yesterday. We sort of wandered through the city to see those places on my list which were not crossed off yet. We started with another cable car ride to the famous crooked street, Lombard Street. I was a little disappointed but glad I saw it. Then we found, with the help of a native, the Italian section. We came upon a pretty little park with a band playing, a crowd watching, mounted policemen patrolling, and to classic MG's -- the old square cut type with right-hand drive. Beautiful! Just up the street, we found the U.S. restaurant which had been recommended. We had a (is divine an adjective for food?) meal. Stuffed is what we were. The waitress, who was clearly the boss, the hostess, the organizer, offered pasta with the dinners. Peggy said she'd take anything. When the waitress offered the same thing to Mike, he asked like what? We were all shocked to hear not just penne and spaghetti, but ravioli. They both ordered ravioli which turned out to be the restaurant's specialty. Hand stuffed with meat and spinach and cheese! Damn, I should've ordered that! But I had my fettuccine Alfredo with chicken. It was just as good!
Then we managed to find a cable car to take us to Chinatown again. Some one of the books I had researched said be sure to go to this alley where the Chinese fortune cookie factory was. We found it with the help of the city delivery postal worker! It was great to see how fortune cookies are made. The thin wafers are on a conveyor system held vertically as they come out of the oven. The worker talks one hot way for off the conveyor, picks up a fortune slip, holds it against the way for which she drapes over a horizontal metal pin. The wafer is still pliable and droops down over the pin and gets a quick pinch from the operator. And on to the next one. I, of course, couldn't resist the almond cookies also made at that bakery. They are delicious. It went on from there to the oldest cathedral in San Francisco, St. Mary's, which is located on the corner of Chinatown.
We then took my favorite form of transportation down to the Embarcadero. I simply can't tell you how much I enjoy riding on the left running board of the cable car. I don't know if it's because I get a thrill out of being able to ride such a thing up and down those steep hills, without a panic pill. After all, it's the closest I'll ever get to a roller coaster! I just love meeting a cable car going the opposite direction. You pass within inches of the people coming at you. I was wearing a backpack and if I hadn't turned it will people on the left side of the oncoming cable car. Maybe I'm turning into a thrill seeker in my old age. Do you think that's possible?
Today we drove south from Marin County, across the Golden gate Bridge, south across San Francisco and onto Route 1. This is the Coast Highway. We followed it for about 30 miles south. One of the first things that caught my attention when large signs saying Pumpkins,U Pick Strawberries, Corn Maze. Imagine those three crops available to the public on the same day. We saw lots of truck farm fields including one filled with cabbage like plants, Brussels sprouts?
We stopped at Pompanio State Beach. Gorgeous breakers, beautiful sand, me in the water. I just had to get a toe into the Pacific! I succeeded and then Peggy said I needed proof, a picture. I went back in, turned toward Peggy, and was swamped above my knees by breaking wave. Much warmer than Maine in August. In fact, look at the pics. Those after my dunking are from this trip. Another unforgettable day. I am so lucky.
So , about yesterday. We sort of wandered through the city to see those places on my list which were not crossed off yet. We started with another cable car ride to the famous crooked street, Lombard Street. I was a little disappointed but glad I saw it. Then we found, with the help of a native, the Italian section. We came upon a pretty little park with a band playing, a crowd watching, mounted policemen patrolling, and to classic MG's -- the old square cut type with right-hand drive. Beautiful! Just up the street, we found the U.S. restaurant which had been recommended. We had a (is divine an adjective for food?) meal. Stuffed is what we were. The waitress, who was clearly the boss, the hostess, the organizer, offered pasta with the dinners. Peggy said she'd take anything. When the waitress offered the same thing to Mike, he asked like what? We were all shocked to hear not just penne and spaghetti, but ravioli. They both ordered ravioli which turned out to be the restaurant's specialty. Hand stuffed with meat and spinach and cheese! Damn, I should've ordered that! But I had my fettuccine Alfredo with chicken. It was just as good!
Then we managed to find a cable car to take us to Chinatown again. Some one of the books I had researched said be sure to go to this alley where the Chinese fortune cookie factory was. We found it with the help of the city delivery postal worker! It was great to see how fortune cookies are made. The thin wafers are on a conveyor system held vertically as they come out of the oven. The worker talks one hot way for off the conveyor, picks up a fortune slip, holds it against the way for which she drapes over a horizontal metal pin. The wafer is still pliable and droops down over the pin and gets a quick pinch from the operator. And on to the next one. I, of course, couldn't resist the almond cookies also made at that bakery. They are delicious. It went on from there to the oldest cathedral in San Francisco, St. Mary's, which is located on the corner of Chinatown.
We then took my favorite form of transportation down to the Embarcadero. I simply can't tell you how much I enjoy riding on the left running board of the cable car. I don't know if it's because I get a thrill out of being able to ride such a thing up and down those steep hills, without a panic pill. After all, it's the closest I'll ever get to a roller coaster! I just love meeting a cable car going the opposite direction. You pass within inches of the people coming at you. I was wearing a backpack and if I hadn't turned it will people on the left side of the oncoming cable car. Maybe I'm turning into a thrill seeker in my old age. Do you think that's possible?
Today we drove south from Marin County, across the Golden gate Bridge, south across San Francisco and onto Route 1. This is the Coast Highway. We followed it for about 30 miles south. One of the first things that caught my attention when large signs saying Pumpkins,U Pick Strawberries, Corn Maze. Imagine those three crops available to the public on the same day. We saw lots of truck farm fields including one filled with cabbage like plants, Brussels sprouts?
We stopped at Pompanio State Beach. Gorgeous breakers, beautiful sand, me in the water. I just had to get a toe into the Pacific! I succeeded and then Peggy said I needed proof, a picture. I went back in, turned toward Peggy, and was swamped above my knees by breaking wave. Much warmer than Maine in August. In fact, look at the pics. Those after my dunking are from this trip. Another unforgettable day. I am so lucky.
Sunday, September 23, 2007
San Francisco
Thanks to my friend Dottie, I now know that the flower I saw on the coast road near Klamath was foxglove.
We left the Eureka area and traveled south on Route 101 over the same 60 miles we had toured in the car the previous day. It is amazing how different the perspective is when you're sitting high in an RV looking out of a picture window sized windshield.At one point, we passed a sign I hadn't even seen the previous day. It was higher than my head in the RV and showed the high water mark in the 1964 flood. At that point the river was 30 or 40 feet below us. That Eel River flows north alongside 101 through the Redwood Forest. It winds through a channel it has cut and the road winds with it and across it a hundred times. I wish I had counted the bridges over the Eel. These bridges were extraordinarily high. In the Park we read about the floods and discovered that the bridges had been washed out in the flood and so were rebuilt higher. The funny thing is they were rebuilt only 2 feet higher! In 1964 they received 101 inches of rain. The average rainfall is 51 inches. That might explain the flooding.
We were driving through Mendocino County, still on 101, when suddenly we were in the middle of the largest grape fields I've ever seen. On this trip I've seen endless fields of corn, of wheat, of hay, and now of grapes. Mike spotted trailer truck loads of bright red grapes. We continued with the vineyards into Sonoma County. I discovered this is called the Russian River Valley. The vineyards went up the hills on the sides of the Valley to a certain elevation and stopped abruptly. If the hill was low, the vineyards went right over the top. A little further down the valley I saw a sign, "U Pick, Sweet Juicy Strawberries". This was on September 19, 2007.
We camped just off 101 in Marin County, just north of the Golden Gate Bridge. The f
irst day I ventured into the city by bus to go to the VA. Not knowing the system, I crossed the city by bus four times that afternoon! It took one hour each way but I followed each trip carefully on the map and learned how the city is set up. As I left the city to return to the RV park, I was crossing the Golden gate Bridge at 7 p.m.. Looking back toward San Francisco, I realized it's a white city. Almost all the buildings are white or very light. Here and there, lights were beginning to come on and sparkle in the twilight. Northeast, across the bay, the sunlight was reflecting off windows in the Oakland/Berkeley area. A huge sailboat was proceeding away from me into the bay. Alcatraz sat square in the middle with a ferry boat passing on each side and another across the front. I Fell In Love!!
The next day, we took a tour of the city. The guide was entertaining and informative. He took us all around but I especially enjoyed the view from Twin Peaks and from the Marin side of the Golden Gate Bridge. He dropped us off on Market Street where we took a bus to Haight-Ashbury. Then we rode the cable car! It was like an amusement park ride! I rode on the running board in the front position while we climbed a hill and then went down the other side. I liked it so much, I insisted we get right back on going the other way! We ate in Chinatown and then rode another cable car. To cap the evening, we rode one of the old-fashioned electric streetcars around the Embarcadero. What a city! Tomorrow, I have to try the ferry service across the Bay.
Today we drove to Marin Highlands. These are high bluffs just West of the Golden Gate Bridge. The views across the Bay and into San Francisco were unmatchable. I'm sure the pics don't touch it, but look anyway.
Went in by ferry today. It was too fast a trip! Saw the bridges, Alcatraz, and the piers. Rode the cable car again (twice more), saw more of the city and said good bye on the Bridge! Sad to leave but onward!!
We left the Eureka area and traveled south on Route 101 over the same 60 miles we had toured in the car the previous day. It is amazing how different the perspective is when you're sitting high in an RV looking out of a picture window sized windshield.At one point, we passed a sign I hadn't even seen the previous day. It was higher than my head in the RV and showed the high water mark in the 1964 flood. At that point the river was 30 or 40 feet below us. That Eel River flows north alongside 101 through the Redwood Forest. It winds through a channel it has cut and the road winds with it and across it a hundred times. I wish I had counted the bridges over the Eel. These bridges were extraordinarily high. In the Park we read about the floods and discovered that the bridges had been washed out in the flood and so were rebuilt higher. The funny thing is they were rebuilt only 2 feet higher! In 1964 they received 101 inches of rain. The average rainfall is 51 inches. That might explain the flooding.
We were driving through Mendocino County, still on 101, when suddenly we were in the middle of the largest grape fields I've ever seen. On this trip I've seen endless fields of corn, of wheat, of hay, and now of grapes. Mike spotted trailer truck loads of bright red grapes. We continued with the vineyards into Sonoma County. I discovered this is called the Russian River Valley. The vineyards went up the hills on the sides of the Valley to a certain elevation and stopped abruptly. If the hill was low, the vineyards went right over the top. A little further down the valley I saw a sign, "U Pick, Sweet Juicy Strawberries". This was on September 19, 2007.
We camped just off 101 in Marin County, just north of the Golden Gate Bridge. The f
irst day I ventured into the city by bus to go to the VA. Not knowing the system, I crossed the city by bus four times that afternoon! It took one hour each way but I followed each trip carefully on the map and learned how the city is set up. As I left the city to return to the RV park, I was crossing the Golden gate Bridge at 7 p.m.. Looking back toward San Francisco, I realized it's a white city. Almost all the buildings are white or very light. Here and there, lights were beginning to come on and sparkle in the twilight. Northeast, across the bay, the sunlight was reflecting off windows in the Oakland/Berkeley area. A huge sailboat was proceeding away from me into the bay. Alcatraz sat square in the middle with a ferry boat passing on each side and another across the front. I Fell In Love!!The next day, we took a tour of the city. The guide was entertaining and informative. He took us all around but I especially enjoyed the view from Twin Peaks and from the Marin side of the Golden Gate Bridge. He dropped us off on Market Street where we took a bus to Haight-Ashbury. Then we rode the cable car! It was like an amusement park ride! I rode on the running board in the front position while we climbed a hill and then went down the other side. I liked it so much, I insisted we get right back on going the other way! We ate in Chinatown and then rode another cable car. To cap the evening, we rode one of the old-fashioned electric streetcars around the Embarcadero. What a city! Tomorrow, I have to try the ferry service across the Bay.
Today we drove to Marin Highlands. These are high bluffs just West of the Golden Gate Bridge. The views across the Bay and into San Francisco were unmatchable. I'm sure the pics don't touch it, but look anyway.
Went in by ferry today. It was too fast a trip! Saw the bridges, Alcatraz, and the piers. Rode the cable car again (twice more), saw more of the city and said good bye on the Bridge! Sad to leave but onward!!
Wednesday, September 19, 2007
Coast and Redwoods
California Coast
We left Redding in the morning when it was about 60°. This was the high point on the thermometer for the day. We went west on Route 299 toward Arcata and Eureka on the northern California coast. It was only about 120 miles but it was the worst road we’ve traveled in the RV. We climbed out of Redding and into the Trinity Alps. This north-south mountain chain is probably part of the Cascade Mountains. We started at about 500 feet altitude climbing to 3000 feet, dropped back down to 1800 feet, climbed to 3500 feet, dropped back down to 1800 feet. Then we climbed the coastal mountain range before coming down to sea level at Arcata. Twice we came to warning signs saying 7% downgrade next 7 miles. Not the type of road Mike likes to take the RV on.
In addition to climbing at least three ridges, we followed the Trinity River through the Trinity Alps. This river flows west toward the Coast Range and has cut its way through sandstone mountains. The route twists and turns along the bank of the river through a narrow gulch. It’s really just wide enough for the river but a road has been cut into one side and then the other side, right out of the side of the mountains. The river is full of rock like the White River but the narrow valley reminds me of the Black River between Downers Corners and Proctorsville in Vermont. Sometimes, we climbed high above the river but still followed the twists and turns the valley. It was beautiful but sometimes a little scary with its precipitous drops.
As soon as we arrived in Arcata, Mike and Peggy took me to Trinidad. A little town set in a pretty little cove. I saw something unique there. It was a trolley car connected to a winch that used gravity to back down a railed incline into the ocean. A boat would move over the trolley car, the driver would grab onto a pole sticking up out of the water from the trolley car, and the winch would pull the car up the incline. As the car came out of the water, the boat would settle on it. At the top of the incline, an overhead electric hoist would lift the boat off the trolley moving it sidewards and settle it on its trailer which had been parked there. Truly a unique way to get a fishing boat out of water.
As soon as we arrived in this coastal area, I started seeing these tall cattail-like waving fronds. I finally asked a lady in Trinidad who identified this as Pampas grass. I don’t know what it looks like in other seasons about they are very attractive in the wild in this season.
Yesterday another first. Redwoods! We went north along Route 101 toward Crescent City. We traveled through a couple of state Redwood forests and the national Redwood Forest. Photographs simply do not capture what I saw. I knew they were large. I knew they were tall. But somehow that knowledge meant nothing. Poor Mike. He had to stop the car every 20 feet because I wanted to take another photo. I took over a hundred of them but I am really not satisfied with them. Size. I took this pic of Peggy and Mike inside a tree but…
Height. No pic does it. Check of the pics out here.
A couple of detours off on a one brought us wonderful views of the Pacific, which drove with boulders which signs explained are being scraped off the bottom of the ocean as the Pacific plate slides under the North American plate. Makes for a beautiful coastline. While on a detour, we came upon the mouth of the Klamath River. We had seen the Klamath Lake and Klamath Falls in Oregon and now we saw the end of the river. It may have been low tide, but what we saw was a sandbar with the river following an “S” curve through it. One side of the sandbar was the river and the other side was the breaking surf. I just loved all the people on the sandbar.
We spent another day in the redwoods are wrote called Avenue of the Giants. Awesome! I cannot get enough of these trees. Of the feeling evoked when walking in a grove is like that in a cathedral. It's awe inspiring. I love to just stand in the Grove and slowly turn a 360° circle. Giants every where you look. Sometimes they're even more awe inspiring when they are laying down. A diameter is unbelievable and the length, beyond imagination.
At the visitor center I found out there are three types of redwoods. The smallest is called the Dawn Redwood.it has fine needles which make me think of baby ferns. The one I've seen most of its call the Coast Redwood. It grows from about the California border down a hundred to a hundred and 50 miles along the coast. The third kind is the Giant Sequoia. We plan to go to the Sequoia national Park just south of Yosemite soon. These pics try to show the differences in the leaves. To the right is Dawn, below is Coast and to it's right is Sequoia.
On the way back, we stopped at a couple of the coastal towns to take some pictures of Victorian homes. These towns along the north coast of California must have had their heyday in the Victorian era since they have so much of that architecture. There is a famous mansion in Eureka which has it all. I'm sure you'll agree.
The last thing I want to talk about today is the barn architecture near Arcata California.There is something unique about this design, at least to my knowledge. barn has a raid in central portion where a hay loft door opens just under the eaves for the old hayforks which were used to lift loose hay in the days before bales. and the two sides come up to the side walls of that raised section. Nowhere have I seen this except in Arcata. Could we call these craftsmen barns like we have craftsman houses?
We left Redding in the morning when it was about 60°. This was the high point on the thermometer for the day. We went west on Route 299 toward Arcata and Eureka on the northern California coast. It was only about 120 miles but it was the worst road we’ve traveled in the RV. We climbed out of Redding and into the Trinity Alps. This north-south mountain chain is probably part of the Cascade Mountains. We started at about 500 feet altitude climbing to 3000 feet, dropped back down to 1800 feet, climbed to 3500 feet, dropped back down to 1800 feet. Then we climbed the coastal mountain range before coming down to sea level at Arcata. Twice we came to warning signs saying 7% downgrade next 7 miles. Not the type of road Mike likes to take the RV on.
In addition to climbing at least three ridges, we followed the Trinity River through the Trinity Alps. This river flows west toward the Coast Range and has cut its way through sandstone mountains. The route twists and turns along the bank of the river through a narrow gulch. It’s really just wide enough for the river but a road has been cut into one side and then the other side, right out of the side of the mountains. The river is full of rock like the White River but the narrow valley reminds me of the Black River between Downers Corners and Proctorsville in Vermont. Sometimes, we climbed high above the river but still followed the twists and turns the valley. It was beautiful but sometimes a little scary with its precipitous drops.
As soon as we arrived in Arcata, Mike and Peggy took me to Trinidad. A little town set in a pretty little cove. I saw something unique there. It was a trolley car connected to a winch that used gravity to back down a railed incline into the ocean. A boat would move over the trolley car, the driver would grab onto a pole sticking up out of the water from the trolley car, and the winch would pull the car up the incline. As the car came out of the water, the boat would settle on it. At the top of the incline, an overhead electric hoist would lift the boat off the trolley moving it sidewards and settle it on its trailer which had been parked there. Truly a unique way to get a fishing boat out of water.
As soon as we arrived in this coastal area, I started seeing these tall cattail-like waving fronds. I finally asked a lady in Trinidad who identified this as Pampas grass. I don’t know what it looks like in other seasons about they are very attractive in the wild in this season.
Yesterday another first. Redwoods! We went north along Route 101 toward Crescent City. We traveled through a couple of state Redwood forests and the national Redwood Forest. Photographs simply do not capture what I saw. I knew they were large. I knew they were tall. But somehow that knowledge meant nothing. Poor Mike. He had to stop the car every 20 feet because I wanted to take another photo. I took over a hundred of them but I am really not satisfied with them. Size. I took this pic of Peggy and Mike inside a tree but…
Height. No pic does it. Check of the pics out here.
A couple of detours off on a one brought us wonderful views of the Pacific, which drove with boulders which signs explained are being scraped off the bottom of the ocean as the Pacific plate slides under the North American plate. Makes for a beautiful coastline. While on a detour, we came upon the mouth of the Klamath River. We had seen the Klamath Lake and Klamath Falls in Oregon and now we saw the end of the river. It may have been low tide, but what we saw was a sandbar with the river following an “S” curve through it. One side of the sandbar was the river and the other side was the breaking surf. I just loved all the people on the sandbar.
We spent another day in the redwoods are wrote called Avenue of the Giants. Awesome! I cannot get enough of these trees. Of the feeling evoked when walking in a grove is like that in a cathedral. It's awe inspiring. I love to just stand in the Grove and slowly turn a 360° circle. Giants every where you look. Sometimes they're even more awe inspiring when they are laying down. A diameter is unbelievable and the length, beyond imagination.
At the visitor center I found out there are three types of redwoods. The smallest is called the Dawn Redwood.it has fine needles which make me think of baby ferns. The one I've seen most of its call the Coast Redwood. It grows from about the California border down a hundred to a hundred and 50 miles along the coast. The third kind is the Giant Sequoia. We plan to go to the Sequoia national Park just south of Yosemite soon. These pics try to show the differences in the leaves. To the right is Dawn, below is Coast and to it's right is Sequoia.
On the way back, we stopped at a couple of the coastal towns to take some pictures of Victorian homes. These towns along the north coast of California must have had their heyday in the Victorian era since they have so much of that architecture. There is a famous mansion in Eureka which has it all. I'm sure you'll agree.
The last thing I want to talk about today is the barn architecture near Arcata California.There is something unique about this design, at least to my knowledge. barn has a raid in central portion where a hay loft door opens just under the eaves for the old hayforks which were used to lift loose hay in the days before bales. and the two sides come up to the side walls of that raised section. Nowhere have I seen this except in Arcata. Could we call these craftsmen barns like we have craftsman houses?
Monday, September 10, 2007
California HERE I AM!
We spent a couple of days at Diamond Lake while we visited Crater Lake. I got up the last morning feeling happy as a lark. Mike and Peggy each noticed it. I, of course, could feel it. I've been debating whether the "high" was due to my experience the previous day at Crater Lake or was it due to the fact that I knew I'd be in California in a few hours? Honestly, California has been a dream of mine for such a long time, I really doubted I would ever get here. Anyway, I was on top of the world.
We proceeded down Route 97, through Klamath Falls and on to the border, leaving Oregon behind. I saw, on the Klamath River, a couple of big squares of logs floating down the river. Somehow, I think these are called booms. They are a large rectangle of logs hooked together with what look like chains, and the rectangle is filled with loose logs. The only thing missing from the scene was lumberjacks skipping from log to log.
We entered California still a 97, which is approximately in the middle of the state, East-West. Within a couple of miles, we passed over a good-sized hill and there was a wide valley filled with various irrigated crops. Each crop was part of a patchwork of colors and textures. Included in these crops were strawberries, flowering, not ready for picking but with some workers in the fields. Somehow, this perfectly fit my mental image of California. It surprised me. I always thought that I'd identify California with San Francisco or the beaches or something else, but crops, green and getting ready for harvest in the winter, struck me as perfect. I even saw crop- dusting (by a truck) far away across the valley. Strange, the mental images we carry.
As we were heading toward I- 5, I spotted off in the far distance, the shadow of an outline of a cone shaped mountain. The haze was obscuring a real look. In fact, the sky has remained hazy when looking off in the distance. At home, I think of the three H's, hazy, hot and humid. The last word does not apply here. Hazy, yes. Hot, yes. So hot it set a record for this area and for me.It was 103 at the airport here in Redding California yesterday!!! But back to the mountain. As we continued south, more and more of the haze cleared until, finally, we came around a corner and there, in all its glory, was Mt. Shasta. Huge, snow-covered for at least its upper third, with granite cliffs and ridges showing through the snow. Magnificent.
In my mind, I compared Mt. Shasta to Mt. Washington in New Hampshire.I guess it was the way they both stand out from their surroundings. Anyway Mount Shasta is about 8000 feet higher than Mount Washington, some 14,000 feet versus 6200. So much for comparisons.
Here in Redding, there is a fantastic architectural/engineering marvel. Peggy and Mike had been there and wanted to show me their find. My first glimpse made me think of the new bridge type I've seen in Boston and Savanna. The kind where there is a vertical support and cables running out from each side like harp strings.I was surprised when we got close enough to see the vertical support was leaning in about a 30° angle away from me and the cables stretched only on one side of the vertical. This is a walking bridge and the floo
r of the bridge is made of glass rectangles. Note the footprints (shoe shadows) in this pic. The bridge is simply a marvel. The off vertical piece balances against the suspended floor of the bridge on a 12 inch bearing. I kept my photographer busy. See the rest of the pics here. By the way, I walked onto the bridge before I realized I was walking on glass. I quickly moved to one of the two granite stripes but Mike was insistent that I walk on glass. He also insisted I touch the first cable I came to. It was vibrating! Needless to say, I touched no others. If you're ever in Redding, you've got to see this.From the man-made to natures way, we next visited Lassen Volcanic National Park. It is promoted as a combination of Yellowstone and Yosemite. I was very disappointed that we saw no Rangers except the one selling tickets at the gate. I had a lot of questions especially about trees that I was unable to get answered. The visitors center was closed and locked. So I'll tell you about the Park and leave you with questions I can't answer.
Prior to Mount St. Helens, Lassen was the last volcano to erupt in California, in 1915
. In the picture to the right, the mountain erupted just below the center peak. Eruption blew away rock which had formed in an earlier eruption 27,000 years ago. It was a reddish hue. Multi ton rocks were carried by snow avalanches as much as 5 miles from the eruption. No one was killed but all homes in the valley were wiped out. We saw a great deal of evidence of the older rock but very little of the new rock which formed in this eruption. In the picture, the caprock on the left of the picture is of the same color as the old reddish rock.Further into the Park we found a caldera with a small dome shaped peak in the middle. The caldera was similar to Crater Lake's but incomplete in that it was not a complete circle. Having seen Crater Lake, it was easy to piece together the parts of the caldera still showing here. It is what is left of a mountain called Brokeoff Volcano, which was the same size as Lassen before it erupted. Also in the Park we saw some fumeroles (steam vents), some boiling water pots and some sulfur spots. Not as impressive as Yellowstone but of the same type and origin. No geysers, however.
Now, trees. Lassen is an evergreen forest. The park rises from around 1000 feet altitude to over 10,000 feet at the top of Lassen Peak. We exceeded 8000. A little funny. As we were climbing up toward the high point of the road in the park, Mike and Peggy kept hearing something. As we reached about 8000 feet, there was a loud bang. Peggy was sitting in the backseat and said WOW! Mike and I both jumped. Peggy found that our unopened Lays potato chip bag had burst open alo
ng the top seam. It seems that Lays guarantees freshness only below 8000 feet.Trees, that's where I was. The pic at right is of a large pine near the entrance of the park. I was particularly impressed by the pattern in the bark. The black lines are recessed and the bark has a strong three-dimensional character. In the leaflet we got at the gate, the Park service says there are Jeffrey Pines near this point. Before I read that, I was convinced these were Ponderosa Pines, based on the bark and the large pine cones lying at their base. HELP!
There were also a number of other trees which intrigued me, They were growing at various altitudes. One was a ladder-like tree. The branches seem to grow in perfect steps and exactly balanced left and right. HELP!
Then there were the trees that looked like their bark had been shredded. The bark of the tree looked stringy. I thought of Cedar but my experience with Cedar is limited to 10 or 15 foot tall trees. Of these were double or triple that.
Then I started examining the needles on these evergreens whenever we stopped. Some sort of reminded me of hemlock. The branches were flat and the twigs at the end of th
e branches spread out with short needles on each side of the twig. Another shown in this pic, made me think of Blue Spruce except only the end (new) needles were bluish and the needles were soft rather than spiky. HELP!There, that should be enough questions. The rest of the pics are here.
Friday, September 7, 2007
Crater Lake
Today we went to crater Lake and I am still overwhelmed by its beauty. There just don’t seem to be words to describe what I saw or my feelings. We saw a film where the color of the lake was described as Safire. I honestly don’t know if that is the right word. When we first came upon the Lake, Peggy said look at the color along the edge and how it changes as it goes deeper. It’s Peacock. She was absolutely correct. I hope you can see in the picture to the right, what she saw.
Let me tell you a little of what either about Crater Lake today. The Lake fills an area about 6 miles in diameter. It is surrounded by caldera. I assumed that the caldera here in the caldera at Yellowstone were essentially from the same causes. I was totally wrong. In fact, it’s about as opposite as you can get. In Yellowstone, the explosion blew out the center of the circle and deposited debris, magma, dust along the edge of the circle making the caldera. Here at crater Lake, the magma rose around the 12,000 foot mountain venting in a series of volcanic eruptions. The venting of the magma left a void under the mountain which collapsed into the void. The top 5000 feet of the mountain crashed downward leaving a 4000 foot deep hole. Gradually, the whole filled about halfway with water, from rain and snowfall. There is no watercourse through the caldera dumping into or out of the Lake. There is one path leading down 1000 feet on the face of the cliff to the water level. We did not take that path! In Yellowstone, the magma vent remains under the surface and produces the geysers. Here, the implosion seems to have blocked most of the volcanic activity except for one volcano cone which rose shortly after the implosion and remains as an island.
Over and over again, I would say awesome! Or beautiful! View after view was so overwhelming that I began to think of the whole scene as something from a Technicolor movie or a painted backdrop for a play. I once saw a painting called Niagara Falls which made the artist rich. Frederich Church is the artist who painted in the famous Hudson Valley School and who built a beautiful home called Olana near Hyde Park, New York. I believe if any artist at that time had been able to paint Crater Lake and capture it as well as he did in Niagara Falls, that artist would have made a fortune too. Had to have lunch looking at the lake!
To say the Lake was blue is a waste of words. It was the deepest blue on any water I’ve ever seen. It had a mirrorlike surface is sometimes and had ripples at other times. It had shades of blue sometimes deeper and sometimes brighter. I give up. Words won’t do it. Try these pics. (Any artists out there ready to try their hand?)
My thanks to Judy this time. She suggested the White Birch like trees were aspens. I confirmed that with a forest ranger today. So far, Melissa and Judy have helped me. Where are the rest of you? Waiting for the right question, I hope.
Wednesday, September 5, 2007
Craters of the Moon
The Snake River Valley in Idaho is a broad smile shaped valley crossing most of southern Idaho. Just north of the Valley, the mountains of Idaho begin. Where we camped, the mountains were called the Lost River Range. A Ranger told me they were the highest mountain range in Idaho and were primarily composed of limestone. The Sawtooth Mountains are north and west of this. That is where the famous ski resorts of Idaho are located, such as Sun Valley. Anyway, located in this valley is a national park called Craters of the Moon.
A caldera is a ring of rock surrounding a blowout of the Earth's crust. It is far larger than a volcano but leaves the Earth's crust thin and weak and therefore subject to volcanoes. Apparently, a series of caldera were formed starting in western Oregon and continuing every million or so years to the East. In actuality, the location of a hotspot where magma was pushing up toward the surface remained stationary. The tectonic plate actually moved west over th
is hotspot over millions of years. This series of caldera formed this Snake River Valley and continued all the way to Yellowstone National Park. After the caldera moved east, this portion of the snake River Valley was subject to multiple volcanic eruptions. Some of eruptions spewed lava over earlier eruptions' lava flows. Anyway, the entire landscape looks like what I think the moon would look like. I took a series of pictures (my photographer handed me her camera for the day). I'm not sure they do justice to this unreal landscape but take a look at them anyway.Driving through the Snake River Valley, the mountains were just off to ou
r right. I took a couple of pics, but again, I think the lens inadequate to the canvas. These mountains were unlike anything at home. And they were bare of trees or almost, and covered with dried grass. The ridges stood out in stark relief from the rest of the mountain. You could see the gullies between the ridges and the entire thing was simply striking.We continued into Oregon, leaving the Snake River Valley behind and picked up the Malheur River. (I think this means bad hour in French -- if so appropriate). This river has cut its way through the mountains above about 4800 feet elevation. We followed the river as closely as many a New England road follows a river through a valley. Because the river cut just about enough room for itself, it was an adventurous drive. (But the mapping company is blamed for this one). The thing I really wanted to value is the absolute beauty of those cuts. The mountains were cut off with sheer cliffs towering above us. Near the top of most of the mountains, was a layer of Cap Rock. It was obviously harder than the layers above and below it so it looked like a crown or the wall of a castle. Just beautiful but unlike anything at home.
The rest of the pics are here.
I noticed that there are bales of rocks in the fences here. Bales of rock in wire like chicken wire that I've seen as retaining walls in New England. Here they are used to support fences where all the posts are just driven metal rods. These bales act as anchors at corners and at cattle gates (pipes laid across an opening that cattle and horses will not cross).
We followed a road across the middle (North South axis) which goes through an area called high desert. Dry, cracked ground growing Sagebrush. Cattle few and far between and irrigated fields ever further between. We reached Bend OR (central OR) and turned South. Suddenly we were in the beginnings of cedar trees everywhere. Soon the cedars gave way to fir. Wow. Sudden change in miles!
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